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I never really have issues with 644 being slow. I usually hit FG between 4-6 days. I usually get a bit more than 85% attenuation too. What temp are you fermenting at?

Agreed. I might go a touch lower depending on the hops, but 12oz would probably the bare minimum. Most of my IPAs (unless I'm making a standard English IPA) tend to have 22++ oz in a 5 gallon batch. I think the most I've crept up to was 42 oz (only 1 oz in the boil) when I needed to clear out...

A couple times every spring/summer I'll make a citra hopped wheat that is a great summer beer and my friends love it. I only vary how much citra I use at the end... either .5 or 1 oz each at 10 and flame out.

I still use my normal hops in the boil, flameout, hopstand, and dry hop. I use the hopshots just to bitter personally. I know some will use them late. The #1 reason I use them is that I have a ton (was given a can of extract last year) and the secondary reason is no hop loss of wort. 1ml equals...

Comet... comet used late is very strong grapefruit to me... pith, juice, everything. To some, I can see it being too assertive in that character (I love it).

I mostly use hopshots (probably columbus derived), magnum, millennium, or warrior. I save anything with flavor that I like for late additions. I find chinook gives a harsh bitterness and I like it late in the boil or in hopstands, so I rarely use it for bittering. Decoction mashes are not...

One of my biggest hits every year is a Citra hopped wheat. ~45% 2 row, 5% Vienna, and 50% wheat to ~1.045-1.050. Bittered to ~15 IBUs with a clean bittering hop then .5 or 1.0 oz (depending on my mood and how much Citra character I want that go round) of Citra at 10 and flame out. I typically...

I don't know the science behind it, but I have found better hop flavor with a ~4 dry hop (depending on the style either at the end of fermentation or shortly after). If the beer is supposed to be really hop forward I also do a 3 day keg hop at room temp, and leave them in the keg until it kicks.

I know a head brewer at a well respected brewery in Colorado that makes a good NE style IPA that uses flour. He won't put it out publicly because of the backlash on the very idea of it. It is very controversial not only in home brewing, but in the industry itself. Though flour has been used for...

August 12

Yeah that should get you close enough. On your first step, you will probably see a lag starting with 1.5l, but it should be okay. Personally, I'd start with .5l, then add the extra 1l after a day. Then decant and make the big starter. It would give the yeast a bit easier time starting up. If you...

I've always had luck doing a step starter with old yeast. 0.5-.075l of 1.030 on a stirplate for a day or two (whenever it visually stops fermenting). Then throw it in the fridge, decant, and then make an appropriate sized starter from that. I think those calculators are very conservative on how...

On one hand I can see AB InBev's purchasing power helping Northern Brewer and that may have some benefits (cheaper hops, maybe more exclusive varieties, etc).... but on the other hand, AB InBev buying everything sucks. I'm now very happy I quit buying from them years ago. My town finally got a...

I love GP in IPAs. It plays really well with fruity hops. Anymore I am using ~70-75% GP as my base malt in hoppy beers.

What was the OG? I'd let it ride personally. It may not be perfect, but I like Conan a bit stressed out.

I tend to prefer breweries that have a focus (saison, brett/wild/sour, and hoppy are what I typically drift towards), but even most of those tend to serve some the standard APA/IPA/Stout/Wheat/Amber. I can see in a lot of ways the local market determines this (specifically the level of...

This looks exactly like oxidation to me. The first step I'd take is to stop cold crashing. I used to cold crash all of my beers in the fermentor, but I started having some similar issues on hoppy beers (I almost always keg... especially hoppy beers). I stopped cold crashing and my issues have...

Don't worry about it. Make a starter and you'll be fine. I've ordered plenty of liquid yeasts that took 4-5 days to get to my house, and have never had an issue.

I'm guessing the calculation is just off on brewersfriend. Putting the recipe into Beersmith, I get 1.011. I've never used SDSY, but that is roughly what I'd expect with Chico.

If you are going big, you can keep going big. The more hops the better, if you ask me. This is how I pretty much do all my hoppy beers now... enough bittering to hit ~40-60% of the IBUs I want (you'll get a lot from the whirlpool... I usually 'bitter' around 20 minutes though) and then add as...