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Anyone know who made this? I'm looking for build plans. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

I have a variant of the 3 keggle gravity fed type of system. Planning to go horizontal and add a pump. Plan is to use a stainless coil up against the ID bulkhead of the 2 keggles with welded joints through the bulkheads. When finished with the boil, I'll dump a 10lb bag of ice into the...

Drank a bit 0.5L and then I wiggled the pressure vent and watched the beer fly into the keg and clear the CO2 line. so i'm leaving it hooked up tonight because I want to drink it tomorrow, then i'll vent, disconnect and clean and not make this mistake again. Thanks all.

Thanks all. This is inline with what I was thinking. I'll wait till this evening (when it's at least a little carbonated) and sample a pint or 2 to get the internal level down. It's a tough gig, but I'll sacrifice for the greater good. Then I'll disconnect the CO2 and clean out the line...

Well crap. This is about the 5th batch I've kegged but I've never had this problem before. About an hour after turning on the CO2 and putting the keg in the fridge, (35psi) I go down and see bubbling in the CO2 incoming line. I lift up the line and there's a few inches of beer in there...

Well, i looked at the link. It said on some of them that you should assume they leak or do not have the valve installed. So um... why buy them?

Hey! That's perfect. Thanks. :tank: Some work might still be necessary due to the size of the current installed valves/vents, but this is exactly what I had in mind.

Looks like it'll be welding then. I can keep the heat down enough to prevent warpage I think. Looks like the easiest thing will be to take the whole valve section out with the bridgeport and weld in a pre-machined insert which will accept that screw-in valve pic I showed earlier. Would...

I have 3 lids like this: I want to have lids like this or like this I'm assuming these are stamped or cast 304 stainless lids. Anybody ever mod these? I can weld them easy enough, but was thinking of simply machining them out and replacing them with a swagelock...

I could weld this in. Anyone got a line on a part # for this little 90 compression fitting? Sorry if this is old news guys. I'm not a frequent flyer on this board.

Here's the best pic of the location that I have. It's a T-shaped stainless piece which adds approx 1" of height above the hole through the bulkhead. Then the compression fitting adds another 1/2" of height, etc. It's just mounted too high. I end up seeing a visual indicator at 5 gallons...

Currently have the couplings high enough on the keg walls that with the 90 deg turn and all in the sight glass, i hit the 5 gal mark before i see indications. Would like to get it down lower. Also, the 90 deg compression fitting and o-rings is kinda flimsy. What's the preferred site glass...

I've had lots of success harvesting yeast. Typically, I just use the autosiphon to suck about 5 oz into a glass container after racking to keg or bottling bucket. Just suck it right off the top of the primary. Yes, it has some trub mixed in, but I use it quickly again and figure it's just...

this is soft copper. So how about the stainless compression fitting but use o-rings inside for the seal? will o-rings survive long in the mash tun temps?

Right now, my 3-keg system uses a copper tube, hand-bent down to the bottom with a stainless braid. I'm building a copper ring manifold and something profoundly simple is stumping me. If you pre-build a manifold, how do you screw it into the coupling inside the keg? Is there some sort of...

Thanks. After reading I just bought the fresh stuff and used one of those little drug dealer scales and measured out 0.15 oz of very thin slices. We'll see what happens.

I'm brewing a steeeenky saison and the recipe calls for 0.17 oz of ginger root. All I could find was the dried, ground, powdered ginger in the spices section of the grocery store. Any tips on determining how to measure out the amount? Is there a strong difference between fresh ground and...

suggest you go to a machine shop or buy new valves instead of having your first tapping experience on stainless. especially if it's potentially cast material. alot can be difficult.

Right. I know they're easier for welding substitutions and gap filler, but is there any health risk, EHS, urban legend, old wives tail, Dr Phil recommended, etc., reason why anyone should use the silver solder vs normal home depot lead-free solder?

Getting ready to solder some copper bits for V2.0 of the dip tubes and such. Previously, I just used bendable copper but i'm going to be welding my keggle fittings and doing the proper soldering gig. Can anyone tell me why silver-based solder is preferred to normal plumbing lead-free...