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A starter is a good idea. I would use all the yeast you have going into the starter. Then pitch the whole starter into your wort.

I would carbonate in the tap a draft then add the hops using a hop bag before to put the the tap a handle on.

I do the same as danorocks just stick it in a bottle or glass filled with water.

I am confused on your half of a pint of yeast from the stout, you are talking about yeast left in the bottom of a carboy from primary fermentation? If so half a pint cant be correct. When you pitch onto a yeast cake you leave your previous brew in the carboy until you have your cool wort ready...

I have two bottles of Jolly Pumpkin. One Bam Beir and the other Orzo. From the can you brew it episodes, it seems like their house bugs might be the same for every beer. I am just wondering if I should harvest the dregs separately or just grow both bottles up together.* Also, I am not...

You could test it yourself. Empty the tank, fill it with 10 psi then disconnect the CO2. Wait a couple days. Hook the tank back up and listen to hear if any CO2 is flowing into the tank. If you hear something you have a leak. In any case you should replace all the seals and clean the tanks...

It could but you could only control ambient temp due to the short length of the thermocouple. Ambient temp can be quite different than fermentation temp. When looking for a cheaper alternative i found this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/

I agree with jdauria, use some oak if you want, dont dry hop a brown ale.

This is a great idea! When you start making recipes less grains is better. That way you can learn what grains give which flavors instead of having a bunch of grains and not learning anything. Start simple and tweak from there. 73 ambient will get you 75 fermenting, that is plenty warm...

you could make a sour beer with it

I think you are good! There is such a thing as a hefeweizen yeast: http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_21_77_155_395&products_id=169 However I think the SB 06 will work fine. When I brew a hef I usualy have my hops flipped from yours, 3/4 oz at 60min and 1/4 oz at 5 min.

cfonnes, thanks for the info. Ill have to look that up on the white labs site. Seems like its a good idea to do a 2nd aeration for big beers.

Oh and if you can only get White Labs yeast to use for a Rouge Dead guy, I would suggest a clean American ale yeast like WLP001.

Probably not, Rouge uses Packman yest which isn't anything like a Kolsch yeast.

So if the yeast take in oxygen for 24hrs why not aerate after you pitch? As long as you give the yeast enough time to take in the oxygen you shouldn't have a problem? Found this thread helpful: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/shaking-carboy-post-pitch-305253/#post3801030 I think i will just...

Sour beers are a whole extra process in brewing. Its going to be difficult to just wing one. I would suggest listening to the Jamil Show - Flanders Red podcast as a starting point. Primary fermentation needs to finish and you need to rack the beer off the primary yeast before you add Brett...

Wine is often fermented with yest that naturally occurs on the grapes. Thus wine can stand up to bacteria and natural yeast that would produce off flavors in beer. I would guess you have some type of natural yeast or bug in your fermenter.

1.1L starter seems pretty small for an 11 gal batch. I usually use a 1L starter for a 5 gal batch. Whats your OG?

I have been reading a bunch of info on oxygenation of wort prior to pitching. Wyest has some good info on their website, they state that 40 seconds of shaking the carboy can get you 8ppm O2. Ideally you want to have 12ppm O2 in solution. This can only be achieved with use of pure oxygen. I am...

1.2-row, crystal malts, and citrus American hops (3-c's) 2. Vacuum sealed hop bags. 3. Nothing. 4. Yes I sometime looks at prices before I go to the store. 5. Sometimes