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No I'm not close. I've had them shipped to me in the winter (I don't bother shipping beer when it's warm, they get totally screwed) but also purchased them in MN when they've done drops there. All the beers have been less than 30 days old.

I've had 6 or 7 different beers of theirs. You haven't experienced the weird melon character in their beers? Tons of people complain about it, not just me. Other Half has had the same issue as well. That over ripe melon character is what acetaldehyde presents as in the presence of high dry...

That melon character in all their beers is technically and off flavor. That’s caused by heavy dry hopping and acetaldehyde. I know people rave about their beers but I’ve only had one (or maybe 6) that wasn’t either oxidized to all hell or reeked of nothing but melons.

Yeah this. There's no way they actually mash at 4.9. There would be literally no benefit to that at all. In fact it would be detrimental to a lot of necessary reactions.

Pretty sure there’s a spreadsheet out there that calculates it for you. I’ve never used it however. It takes a bit of trial and error as your boil pH will drop naturally during the boil but the amount it drops depends on a bunch of different variables. I’ll usually pull a sample at 20 and cool...

OG should really never get above 1.048. You will get much less malt character with a 4.7-5% beer that starts at 1.046. Minimize your hot side aeration. Ideally preboil your water at least and try underletting and minimize stirring. What is your boil off rate? You don’t want an intense...

Utah

What you’re experiencing has nothing to do with the amount of hops you added in the hotside. I add a lot more hops to the kettle at higher temps for most IPAs and get zero astringency lingering bitterness. 90% of the time that’s caused by water/pH related issues. Half the breweries around me...

Ha. I thought I did some careful planning.. boy was I wrong Yeah working with the city and the buildout has been the most mind boggling experience of it all. Like trying to hit knuckle balls all day every day. I looked at different spaces within this one complex in town for about 6 months...

This beer is most likely 2row with a bit of Carafoam and that’s about it. Bright is dryhopped after fermentation and they use dextrose to boost the ABV. I’d say Mosaic @ 30/5/WP. 1.5-2oz/gallon DH The Great Fermentation’s Julius clone won’t get you close to this or Julius for that matter.

Astringency / back of tongue bitterness has nothing to do with IBUs. You most likely have a bunch of alkalinity in your water which is the root of this. Fermenting at 75 would cause a bunch of higher alcohols and not make a great beer (depending on the yeast) but it shouldn’t cause...

8500 full time as of 2019. I’d bet it’s over 10k now... however there’s an insane number of second (and third and fourth) homes here and it’s a very popular tourist destination so population can probably reach 80-100k at the peak times. I think we get north of 5 million visitors a year. We...

I am mid buildout at the moment. Signed the lease in November. Hopefully open in August. I’m starting with a 3.5bbl system and 7bbl FVs in a spot under 2000 square feet. It’s too small for sure. Everything but the boiler and chiller is used and pieced together from friends in the industry...

Philly sour will make a sour beer... a tart saison it will not make Maybe if you add Saison yeast after about 24 hours of Philly Sour

Even with RO water you should be using some acid source to make sure your mash pH falls somewhere in the 5.2-5.5 optimum window. Usually with RO for 6 gallons into the fermenter and a pale grist I’m adding 4oz of acid malt plus a decent amount of Ca salts to get mash pH into the 5.3-5.4 range...

So I think you might be a bit confused about a few things. Do you have a pH meter? Do you just use tap/well water? You should be using acid malt and/or lactic acid for every beer regardless. If you want to make something tart you don’t want to start at the beginning of the process, you...

If you want to make something similar to HF or other “tart” Saisons you’re gonna need some Brett. You can harvest it from their bottles (you’ll get Wine yeast too but it doesn’t matter). Or you can buy TYB184 from the yeast bay. Brew with a Belgian yeast of your choice. Let it finish...

3-4oz per gallon of Dry Hop with high polyphenol hops is how you get that Monkish look...

Huh. I’ve never picked up any of the NZ diesel in any Nectaron beer I’ve had or made. Literally the least diesely hop from NZ I’ve probably used.

CL has zero to do with “softness”. It helps to build a perception of body and length on the palate/sweetness. There’s no water salt that makes anything “soft”.