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Because Nottingham isn't a lager yeast and you aren't really making a saison if you use Nottingham?

WLP099 (Super High Gravity Ale)? I've not heard anyone give this a favorable report in terms of beer making. Sometimes I've seen people start with something else and finish off with this. Have you heard different?

An ice water bath will bring it down more quickly. Did you use one of the calculators to do an estimate before you started? If so, how close was it? The Munich and C60 can bring your water down into range even without much else if your water isn't too heavily buffered. Do you have a water...

Heat will destroy your probe. Cool to room temp and shoot for 5.4 to 5.6. 5.2 can be OK for some beers, but to start, shoot for the middle 5.5 until you get a handle on how to control it all.

Remember, the calculators are simply estimates. Malt varies. Check your meter in the buffers after the reading. If they are close then it may be the malt you are buying isn't the same as modeled. Not a big deal. If you are consistently lower it could be the base malt if you always use the...

Have you read the primer stickied to the top of this forum? https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/brewing-water-chemistry-primer-198460/ Excellent place to start.

Do you know the spring water is any different from your tap water? If you have a well they could be the same.

Your best bet to understand this is to plug your numbers into any of the calculators. They have suggested water profiles. Some numbers make me think you will probably want to cut with some RO water but that is just a hunch. A lot of this stuff becomes clear once you start plugging the numbers...

I have the Milwaukee 102. Is it my dream meter? No. Could I justify spending more? Probably not. I'm quite happy with my last bottled beer. It is a blond. I have to set it down and walk away from it to keep from downing it in under 5 minutes. My water is 'challenging' and even defies...

Carbon filters require 6 minute contact with the water to remove chlorine. Chloramine jumps to 22 minutes. If your carbon filter is a quart capacity and you are drawing water faster than 1qt/6min you are not really removing chlorine.

I don't know which of the tools allow you to blend water but that is an option you have available to you so you may as well use it. If you are just starting you want to keep it simple. Your first goal is a suitable mash pH. Second you can use one of the available water profiles based on what...

The RO water is damned good. I don't know EZ and can't really tell much from the screen shot. Brewer's Friend lets you use two sources so you can blend the waters. It looks like it says the estimated pH is 5.7? That's a little high so add some acid to the mash in whatever form you choose.

A professional brewer told me you can oxygenate for up to 48 hours after pitching. Chris White in the yeast book says to add a shot at 18 hours after the initial growth cycle.

It is generally accepted that hot break is good for yeast health so why try so hard to get rid of it?

Chris White in the "Yeast Book" suggest covering the carboy with aluminum foil until the krausen falls.

Some time, somewhere I saw a chart on particle size and how long it too various thing to settle out of beer based solely on size. I don't remember if temp played into this listing. Not finding it at the moment though.

My understanding is that the ammonia turns the chlorine to chorlomine and that won't dissipate easily without some help. Use the cambden tablets.

People seem to think that bittering hops don't add flavor. They do for me. I can tell a beer with magnum hops for bittering and I'm not a fan unless used very sparingly or maybe with another hop.

If you made the starter correctly then you don't want to pitch onto it. You want to decant the liquid first.

Timely as I was just wondering about the stability of the buffers in this regard.