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  1. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    I agree with Dgallo. Nothing stands out as being obviously problematic. What kind of attenuation are you getting (OG/FG)? How are you mashing/boiling? What does your water profile look like? How healthy are your fermentations (lag time/time to finish)?
  2. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    It’s from hops that are high in polyphenols. Specifically, a lot of the Southern Hemisphere hops (galaxy, Vic secret, enigma, etc...). That’s what gives the beer that opaque pale appearance.
  3. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    Check out post #9727. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/northeast-style-ipa.568046/post-8674577
  4. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    Actually, that is a good point. Some of them probably are. Even those that aren’t, the lighting makes a HUGE difference.
  5. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    You mean like this? Ya, you can make them pale yellow without changing the mouthfeel. A lot of us have just decided we like the characteristics provided by aromatic/honey/caramalts. The beer in the picture is Fawcett Pearl, Weyermann Pale Wheat, Flaked Oats, Fawcett Caramalt. I would have to...
  6. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    Ok, this beer is finally on. After cold crashing I naturally carbed with CBC1 (dextrose/room temp for 72hours). Its been in the kegerator two days since carbing. Aroma is awesome! Strata dominates with a little bit of dank/orange coming through from the I7 as well. The combo together kind of...
  7. M

    What are you drinking now?

    Family has been going to Colorado for years, but first chance to try any of the Weldwerks IPA’s. Awesome beer! Don’t worry, it’s just poor lighting, the beer is definitely not brown!
  8. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    Maybe try ordering some of the Bells select Citra from their homebrew store. That would probably be some of the highest quality Citra that you can pick up as a homebrewer. I don't love it in every beer, and I don't use it often, but it's great at transforming your base hop into the "candied"...
  9. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    As far as supplementary hops go, I think the top hops are: 1. Citra (whirlpool/dry hop) 2. Columbus (whirlpool) 3. Idaho 7 (whirlpool/dry hop) 4. El Dorado (whirlpool/dry hop)
  10. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    I haven't blended Vic Secret with anything else; but I think Mosaic, Galaxy, Idaho 7, or Citra (in order of preference) would all work well.
  11. M

    Help w deciding on NEIPA Hops

    If you go with the first combo, it will probably be easier to balance the different hops. If you go with the second, you'll probably have to hit it pretty hard with the huell melon to get the balance right. And I actually prefer Conan to 1318, I just don't recommend it to most people because...
  12. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    Can confirm: CTZ + Vic Secret is a dynamite combo. I used that as a variation of the Trillium recipe. I included a small amount of Vic Secret in the whirlpool as well.
  13. M

    Why the rush?

    I think I explained the benefits for why you would want to transfer lagers into the serving keg (spund) at the tail end of a healthy primary in my initial reply. It's not rushing it into the keg if it's actually beneficial to the end product. You do still need to wait for the beer to drop clear...
  14. M

    New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

    Thanks for the heads up! I just ordered a pound along with some Citra. I've been wanting to give them a try.
  15. M

    Lallemand Verdant IPA Ale

    After reading this thread, I'm definitely getting excited to try this yeast. I just ordered 4 packets to have some on hand. I will probably brew a Citra single hop for the first beer to about 1.046-1.050 to get a feel for it and then give it a go in the trillium recipe.
  16. M

    Why the rush?

    That would be using a pitch rate of 2-2.5m cells/ml/plato. That would be a proper pitch rate for standard gravity lagers with cold fermentations and does not increase risk of off flavors.
  17. M

    Why the rush?

    It might take a lager yeast 4-5 days to finish with a proper pitch held at 48F. In wort of that same gravity it might take a proper pitch of ale yeast 3-4 days to finish when held at its' proper fermentation temperature (depending on the strain). So, very slightly longer yes, but it should not...
  18. M

    Help w deciding on NEIPA Hops

    I’m with you, I hate Sabro in large quantities. I wouldn’t even be able to drink a single hop Sabro beer. Used in very small quantities (5-10%), it can help fill out other hops and add a certain “creamy” character. Any more than that, it just squashes other hops, and not in a pleasant way.
  19. M

    Why the rush?

    If it’s taking 2 weeks to complete primary then you need to pitch more yeast, add nutrient, oxygenate more, make a vitality starter (or all of the above). If you pitch enough healthy yeast and give them a good environment to work in, lager yeast shouldn’t take any longer to work than ales.
  20. M

    Why the rush?

    There is a practical reason for speed as well. My lagers are always transferred to kegs on day 5-7 for spunding. Spunding has a few positive benefits over force carbonation. 1. Naturally produced CO2 by the yeast is 100% pure (meaning free of oxygen). 2. Active fermentation will help to scrub...
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