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Harbor Freight has cheap pond pumps for recirculating - I got one for $14.99. I collect the first few gallons of really hot water in my HLT for cleaning - usually about 6 gallons. After the water coming out of the chiller is cooling down, recirculate with the pond pump sitting in a cooler of...

It really depends on how strong of a beer you want to brew. With a mash tun equal to your batch size you can produce a roughly 1.065 beer @ 75% efficiency. Whether or not that is adequate you and your brew buddies will have to decide. Or go with what mux suggested ;)

You mention Oxy-clean and then mention you are possibly switching to Star-San. What have you been using for sanitizer? Oxy-Clean is only a cleanser so it should be followed by a sanitizer (Star-San, Idophor, etc)... If you've only been using Oxy that is probably a bigger issue than the scratches.

You have time for a starter if you did one today. Most all of the yeast growth happens in the first 12-24 hrs. So you can make a starter today give it 24hrs or so and then chill overnight to decant off before pitching on Sunday. Also, if you change the "Simple Starter" drop down option to...

I let one go for a almost 3 weeks in the fridge with no problems. The morning of the brew day I decanted the old liquid off and added a bit of fresh starter wort to help wake up the yeasties ahead of pitching into the full batch, but I'm not sure if that was even really necessary.

I recently brewed the CYBI Mirror Pond clone and fermented it with 1275. Similar to permo's recipe but all cacscade hops. It turned out delicious - a nice crisp, light mineral character that is a great accompaniment to the hop flavor.

If you stick to copper / stainless parts in your mash tun, then yes. Some people use cpvc and vinyl tubing in mash tuns that can handle mash temps but would not survive the heat of a burner under them.

Check out this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/how-big-your-mash-tun-needs-123585/ The chart will give you an idea of what gravity you can brew based on your efficiency and mash tun size. If you're just starting all grain, I'd plan for about 70% efficiency when looking at the chart so...

I'm pretty sure this would work for what you are trying to do. It incorporates the o-ring that would normally be around the dip tube so you have a good seal when you thread the ball-lock fitting on: Adapter for Cornelius Keg Posts 1/4" FFL x 19/32"-18 : Northern Brewer

I agree with horseinmay, you should weld a threaded post on. Without the post, there is nothing to hold the poppet in place so you'd have a permanently open port with no way to seal it up.

The 1776 Porter from Radical Brewing is just Pale, Brown and Biscuit malts. The recipe and a discussion about it is here: Print Page - 1776 Porter from Radical Brewing It would be a fun history lesson / experiment and might possibly be a middle ground you both enjoy. But, as others have said, I...

A couple batches ago I started fermenting in a sanke keg. So far, its unmodified so I've been using a carboy cap stretched over the port. Since I pretty much use whole hops exclusively, so have been hesitant to dry hop in it... Getting used dry hops out of a carboy is by far the most tedious...

Very cool! My only concern would be getting inside to polish up the interior of the weld. I had just stumbled across Yuri's version over the weekend. the thread is here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/diy-chilled-conical-keg-fermenter-123770/

You could always fill the other side with hot water equal to your mash temperature which would increase the thermal mass to help hold temps.

I used a standard weldless bulkhead like this one, the o-ring is included: Weldless 2-Pc SS Ball Valve The original spigot was kind of high, but with a pick up tube I can siphon all but a few ounces out. I'll take a picture of the set-up and post it later or in the morning.

Yours sounds pretty low. Deschutes website lists Obsidian at 55 ibus. A couple of things for you to consider: - Partial boils are denser so you need to use extra hops to get the same bitterness as you would in a full boil. I believe Hopville takes that into account. - Are you doing a 90...

My fryer kettle came with the spigot that looks like a little faucet and I was able to swap it out. The inside drain hole was actually hex shaped to fit an allen wrench; although if I recall correctly, I was able to just hold the inside part with my thumb and unscrewed the spigot. The hole was...

If you've been using just pale extract, your specialty grain amounts should carry over pretty accurately. I'm pretty sure pale extract is just 2 row and some cara-stan or very light crystal to add a little body. Assuming you use LME, .75 lb is equal to 1 lb of grain so you can multiply your...

I have used oats successfully with a single step mash using "Quick Oats" (the cooks in 1 minute kind). From what I've read on here, the quick oats avoid the need for any additional mash steps or cereal cooking. Pre-gelatinized, I believe is the term for it as best as I can recall. Also...

MMBB, I'm pretty sure White Labs WLP013 is derived from the same strain as Wyeast 1028. MrMalty.com lists them both as being sourced from Worthington White Shield.