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I've done 8 batches on the new system, all but the last one were 2-4 points low, pretty consistent. Yes, all but one were Hazy IPA recipes and all had a very similar OG. The one that wasn't an IPA was a stout a few batches back which was also 3-4 points low. I know there's a lot of variables...

I use Brewfather online for my recipes and it gives me a guess at OG and FG. For whatever reason I haven't determined yet, I'm always a 2-4 points low. ....But this last beer I did I was 16 points low! Just wanted to get some opinions on why my mash efficiency was so off. To me the most...

I use a Spike 5 gallon conical and a fermentation fridge. Lately, I've been chilling to 58º for 36 hrs+ to encourage stuff to drop, then dump it. Then dry hop 1-3 times for 24-36 hours, dumping after each dry hop session. I also rouse with Co2 during each dry hop session.

Yeah, I only bring it up because my OG was really low (based on software prediction) and my pH was unusually low. Again, I suppose it could be bad grain crush and/or super slow sparge?

What about mash pH? Can that have an effect on efficiency? I use RO water and adjust water from there. I noted on my last brew that my pH (checked after about 10 min into the mash) was at 5.3 @ room temp. I usually shoot for 5.4-5.6 at room temp. I added 3.5 ml of 88% lactic acid to a Hazy...

I was hoping to find these results, I had the same issue last brew! I slowed my sparge down quite a bit (compared to all my other batches) by restricting flow with a flow valve. My efficency was terrible compared to all my other brews on my newish system (8 brews so far). My target OG was...

Yes!!

Hazy's are extremely challenging. I make them all the time (my last 6 of 7 brews). I take every precaution to avoid oxygen and my last one turned on me between 5 and 6 weeks. Even if I drink it all before that time frame I purposely leave some so I can see when it goes bad. I built a dry...

Ha! Yeah, haven't noticed any issues but not into drinking any kitty litter...gonna get some faucet dust caps with those faucet springs. Going cat proof!

I like it. Might score some of those, just found some at RiteBrew for $1.79 for Intertap taps.

Yeah, I like to live dangerously!

Return springs? How does that work?

Funny, I do have a cat. He never messes with them and his litter box is 3 feet from there! Never considered that but now I'm surprised it hasn't happened yet!

Drip tray is attached by 4 "rare earth" magnets I took out of old computer hard drives. I glued the magnets onto the tray. Then you have easy removal for cleaning and the magnets are strong enough to easily hold full beers on the tray.

I went as simple as possible. 2"x4"s cut on a 45º, glued & screwed together and attached by landscape glue, painted white. It's held up beautifully for 5+ years now.

To pressure ferment, you need a spunding valve (to control the amount of pressure) and a pressure release valve (for safety). I guess technically you just need a spunding valve but if it were to get stuck and pressure builds you could create a bomb. I use Spikes all-in-one which does both...

Looks like Nokt from the other thread turned his to the side so the front attachments would fit. I have an (optional) sight glass so that adds more bunch more inches. Also, looks like he only has a blowoff on the top, I added Spikes all-in-one PRV and a dry hopper which needs a ton of vertical...

Here’s a visual…but basically a dry hopper height wise and sight glass and a valve in the front. Hope that helps.

I see you mentioned you may move to a CF5. That’s what I use. 16”x16”x36” isn’t going to cut it (depending on what attachments you use). I spent months looking at fridges and the ONLY one that would work was a side by side. Based on the attachments that face the front and those that I needed to...

Many threads on how to make your own. This was my project… https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/side-by-side-converted-to-single-chamber-fermenter.701445/