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That's right, but to clarify, you substitute the dextrose point for point with the extract. In other words, don't add the dextrose on top of the given recipe. If you simply add the dextrose on top of the extract, you just have a higher alcohol beer with a still high FG. Joe

I think the calculation formulas are a helpful tool for a brewer. They give you a decent indication over multiple batches of what a beer calculated to "40 IBU's" (with a traditional bittering process) in your brewery tastes like, and if you find it too bitter/not bitter enough, you know that a...

That is great info. It would be nice to form a bit of a trend, but your earlier findings fall right in line with what I was saying. Were the starting gravities and yeast similar? Those two things are important too, and would help support me even more. It would be great if you would follow...

Useless is a strong word - I agree. Let me rephrase. They provide a completely inaccurate calculation as compared to measured IBU's, but yes, the inaccuracy is consistently inaccurate. I simply mean that you need to take the calculation itself with a grain of salt. Learn what "40 IBU's"...

Correct. That is why I said, "One of the other things I took out of the experiement is that the "curse of 1.020" that many extract brewers run into may be more due to the steeping grains than a supposedly "less fermentable" extract." Excuse me for getting off topic, but I think this could...

Go to the search field, and type... "BEER STOPPED FERMENTING AT 1.020" ...and let me know how many hits you get. Joe

I think the primary/secondary debate will go on forever, but there is one fact that can not be argued; the number one enemy of a fermented beer is oxygen. For all the reasons someone can cite as to why they feel the need to move the beer off of the yeast cake prior to packaging (autolysis...

You need to read this article. I have made that exact recipe from the link (Jamil's Evil Twin) and it is incredible. I am sorry to be disagreeable, but the old concept of Bittering/Flavor/Aroma is just completely dated. Naturally, you get more bittering from early additions, and more...

Dry hop questions will get you lots of opposing answers. Start with this: "Question=does it hurt to let the wort ferment more than 10 days after you have dry hopped?" I know it is kind of a semantics thing, but the wort is done fermenting when all of the fermentable sugars have been...

Check out this thread - it is one of the most interesting things I have ever read on HBT. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/testing-fermentability-crystal-malt-208361/ Basically, through a ton of experiment, the brewer concluded that when mashing crystal malts in the presence of a base...

Nateo did a good job of explaining already, but there is a little more to the story that I'll add. First of all, I have heard that the taste ceiling for IBU's is 100. Once you get above that, the changes are undetectable. However, a measured 100 IBU's is basically unheard of. All of...

Well, actually, the two things you need to know for carbonation are the volume of beer, and the current temperature of the beer. The colder it is, the more CO2 it will store in solution. I'd love to help you on an exact calculation, but I just use the carbonation formulas in Beer Alchemy...

Low to mid 70's is certainly not insane. Too high for an English/American strain, yes, but not insane. In fact, I believe that the unwanted esters from a warmer fermentation will actually subside with time. That is why you see a push for 4 week primaries -> they are kind of a magic bullet to...

I know this reply is about 6 months late, but you could use the Tasty McDole method for quick session beers. He has talked about how he does something like a 70/30 split between his Tasty APA and spring water, which is combined in a keg, force carbonated, and bottled from tap for quick...

That is the answer! Do not freak out - you are not even close to screwed. My first choice would be to slowly infuse boiling water until you hit temp (or run out of room), taking a reading while you stir. Do not just blindly dump in 2 gallons of boiling water while hoping things work out...

I have been scratching out ideas for my (future) keezer for what seems like a couple years now. I settled on this.... I brew ~once a month. I also want 4 kegs in rotation, and 2 taps at all times. I also wanted to be able to serve at different pressures, and have a keg conditioned and...

160F is pushing the upper limits of conversion, but it will be fine. 170F is another story - get a better thermometer. Hitting mash temps is challenging enough with good equipment, let alone faulty gear. Expect a lot of mouth feel. Your APA may have a bit more body than you are used to...

For your first question, my AG system uses all food grade parts, but I use coolers for my MLT and HLT. In other words, all of my valves, bulkheads, gaskets, fittings, clamps, false bottom, tubing, etc. are either stainless steel or a food grade high temp plastic. Once my brewing water leaves...

Wyeast ESB is the 1968, which is equal to White Labs WLP002. Wyeast 1098 is the equal to White Labs WLP007 (my favorite yeast). I have used both WLP002, and WLP007, the the 007 will finish very dry. It attenuates just like the Chico strain, but finishes quickly and drops clear much...

I have never seen the powered form. I bought a jar of the tablets for like $3, and I will probably be dead before I use it up. The thing I like about the tablets is that they are pretty easily measured. I simply break them in 4 pieces, and use accordingly. It is such a small amount, I think...