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I've had bad hangovers with both homebrew and commercial. I think for me at least the beers that gave me hangovers where fermented hot and produced fusel alcohols. They were all belgian that were fermented at 74 or higher...

This may be the case (I have no idea if there are other reasons to have a mashout), but since I boil on a kitchen stove with 2 burners sparging with mash temperature water helps me get to a boil faster and reduce my brew time significantly.

Resurrection! I find that recirculation is very important in batch sparging. Many people might say that it's only necessary to recirculate maybe a quart or so, but I find that recirculating the wort several gallons worth helps. Stirring may also do the same thing, but I kind of like the idea...

Using wlp007 I can have my pale ales fermented and bottled in about 2-3 weeks.

I converted one of these for my mash tun and I use it for 5 gallons and 10 gallons frequently. You can always mash smaller amounts. I say grab it while you can.

Thanks for clarifying.

6 weeks for a hefeweizen. It was nearly a crystal - weizen by that time.! Sort of off topic...what's the longest you would let a beer sit AND wash the yeast?

So at this point the order is closed? If not I can add myself for about 3 bags by 12 pm tonight. If it's closed I'll do it next time!

13 bucks for Abt. 12. I'm too cheap to spend more on just one bottle...

I know this thread is very old, but hopefully someone will respond. So in the quote above am I right in that you basically dough in at 10pm and let the mash do it's thing for about 9-10 hours? In other words, if your target mash temp is 153F, you mash in to temp and close the lid and go to...

Just curious if OP has done this and continued to do it. I'm in a situation where I only have about 2-3 hours to brew AG. That's basically enough time for me to heat mash water, dough in, and sparge. I was thinking that I could mash one night and then boil the next. I am doing 5 gallon batches...

Is it possible to brew an IPA without dry hopping? 1oz cascade 1oz columbus and 1oz citra is a nice combo I use.

And Denny's Favorite seems like a good choice which I would have never thought of: "It is unique in that it produces a big mouthfeel and accentuates the malt, caramel, or fruit character of a beer without being sweet or under-attenuated."

So I guess since you are suggesting that I will want a moderate-attenuating yeast WLP007 is a bit too much? I was thinking about mashing a bit high, like 156F to help offset some of the dryness that may come with using a high attenuating yeast like WLP007.

I'm planning on making a Scottish Ale 80 Shilling and I'm trying to figure out what yeast to use. Obviously WLP028 is the natural choice, but I'm wondering why WLP007 isn't used more often. White Labs has several suggestions for WLP007 and Scottish Ale only got a 2 (see here...

This sounds like a great way to get some wort for starters. I've been wanting to can some starters and that OG sounds like the perfect range.

I'm in for a group buy around February. Christmas is coming so I've got to save for that.

You should make a good hefeweizen with that yeast. However make a starter if you use liquid. Dry yeast usually is just fine without a starter.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by "things"? More fermentable sugars at the low end?

Can you elaborate on why you are mashing for soo long at 140 and then mashing so short at 158? I'm a novice brewer but isn't it the case that if you mash around 148 to 150 for 90 minutes you'll achieve the same results? If not could someone help me with my mashing theory? Thanks!