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I occasionally do a partial mash in a small 4 gal cooler with stainless braid, and full boil on the stove if it's cold outside and I'm feeling lazy. It works well for half batch AG as well, and you don't have to mess with maintaining the mash temp in a pot. I think partials let you figure out...

Probably, but eh, I'm still breathing.

Unless it was massive chunks coming off the chiller, I doubt that it was enough oxidized copper to really harm you. I did the same thing once running the wort through the chiller after letting it sit with StarSan for too long, the wort had a distinct green color for a little while when it came...

I have a HERMS coming from a cooler mash tun through a 6gal HLT in a crap ton of copper coil. I fill that to the top for the sparge water and mash out recirculation, and heat the mash water (usually about 4 gallons) separately in the brew kettle before doughing in. Using the HLT to sparge the...

It's my understanding that the hop aroma is pulled out if the yeast are still in suspension. Given that, I'd make sure fermentation is totally done, gelatin it for a few days, then start the dry hop. Not sure if the gelatin would pull down the hop oils too.

My big ones are cheaper (once amortized), more control on the process, ingredients, fermentability, and just plain more fun. Downsides are longer brew days and more equipment to clean.

I don't see a need to transfer them off the yeast. How's the temp? And how many yeast did you add at the start of each? Strange that the champagne yeast didn't start it up, but that's a lot of alcohol to be dumped into. Might take a few more days to get active again. I wouldn't aerate, but try...

I started at around 0.037" and got efficiencies the same as the LHBS mill, then went down to 0.032" without conditioning and went up by 8 points.

I calculate your brewhouse efficiency at 71%. Good, bad, it depends on what you really care about, but that's not bad. If you focus on the crush, get it a little smaller, you should be able to gain at least 7-8 points in my experience. If you're sure you get all of the liquid from the boil into...

Looks tasty to me! :drunk: That's pretty wicked bitter, I might drop it back a little, maybe drop one of the 1 oz 60 min, but that's just my taste. Also, that grain bill should give you an OG around 1.080 or so, not sure why the recipe says 1.046.

My basic understanding is that butterfly valves are like ball valves except they open a crack on both sides of the tube as the gate turns, instead of just one side like on the ball valve. So a little open on the knob means twice as much flow as the same turn on a ball valve. That's probably what...

What were the actual temps for each? Sounds like you got plenty of conversion and I doubt you'll notice a difference with or without a mash out.

You're right, that's pretty much impossible. Hate to ask, but did you cool your hydro sample before reading, or convert it down to 60F? What's your grain bill?

You could roll it around to unstick the yeast from the walls, but since it was already re-hydrated, my bet is that most went into the beer and you're fine. As you said, fermentation started, plus dry yeast usually gives you enough to work with.

Duvel clone, too much dextrose added to primary after fermentation slowed, didn't let it ferment out completely, even though FG was 1.004. One bottle blew the bottom out in the guest room at some point (smells great in there now), one next to the fridge at the in-law's over Xmas. Oops. Ambient...

My opinion is no, you don't get the great hops aroma from late additions like you do from dry hopping. Whenever I make a pale, I lean towards the dry hop, even in a small amount anywhere from 0.5-1.5oz over a flameout addition (even though I'll usually have a 0min in there too). I think you get...

Obviously I've never done this so I have no experience to say yea or nay. However, the entrepreneur in me says recruit someone more knowledgeable, maybe some experience in a local brewery looking to start their own shop, and stay very much involved. Who knows, you may even decide to quit your...

Efficiency depends on a number of factors, and the more you keep them constant, the more you can predict your efficiency. I think the main ones are grain crush and your lauter process. If you stay within 10 pts every brew, you can easily hit your expected OG. The bigger the beer, though, the...

I've wittled all my recipes down to using saaz, chinook, simcoe, amarillo, cascade and williamette. Never had the need for another, but when it comes time for a weizen, hallertau might come in handy.

Yep, that looks good. Ive seen lots of different opinions on how much corn sugar to add, and 4oz always works well for me. I think 5oz is too much, personally.