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I'm going to bump this thread since I did another NEIPA with 2lbs of flaked grains (1lb flaked oats, 1lb flaked barley; roughly 8% of total grainbill) and I once again missed my target mash pH by a wide margin. Bru'n Water predicted 5.2 and I got a reading of 5.8. The flaked oats were entered as...

I'd absolutely do it. However, I'd use 34/70 instead of S-23/S-189. 34/70 is VERY clean (i.e. little-to-no esters), and won't clash with the dry hops.

I do my west coast IPA's at 149°F-152°F and my new england IPA's at 156°.

OK, another stupid question. Do I need to make a starter for the Lacto? It'll be a 3.5 gallon batch.

If you have the space, you could let it ride for an extended period of time. Like I said in the other thread, the beer tastes good now, after 2 months sitting in the keg. However, next time I make this beer, I'll use 1oz instead of 2oz.

5% roasted barley sounds awful. I used 2oz (56g) in a 5gal (19L) recipe recently and that was too much, IMO.

S-23 is quite ester-y. I used it a 60° a few months ago in a dark lager, turned out fantastic after 2+ months. Not sure if it was the yeast or the use of roasted barley that caused the initial terrible-ness. But, whatever, it is damn good now.

So I'm thinking I'll go with either Wyeast 1318 or Saflager W-34/70. Anything opinions?

Most folks in this thread recommend mid-60's as a starting point. I'm wondering if anyone lets it ride around 70°+? My next NEIPA will be a mix of 1318 and 1272, both underpitched without a starter.

My apologies if this has been asked a million times, this is my first foray into the world of sour beers. My plan is to do a kettle sour (using Yeast Bay lacto blend) with a simple grain bill (something like 90% 2-row, 5% white wheat, and 5% vienna) and then age on apricots. Is there a...

I stir 15 minutes into the mash, and again when sparging (batch).

I don't know about the tangerine part, but there is no reason at all to transfer it to a secondary (or to leave it in primary once fermentation is complete, which it probably is). Toss everything into your primary vessel, then rack to keg or bottling bucket.

My wife would probably agree with you. She's none-to-pleased that our garage freezer is now the mass-hop-storage-freezer.

According to my dad, just about any homebrewed beer I hand him is an IPA. Amber Lager? IPA. Hefeweizen? IPA. Belgian Dubbel? IPA.

Just wondering what your procedure(s) look like (i.e. do you crush? do you put in the fridge?, etc...). Thanks!

Just add the cholaca and cacao nibs to the primary once fermentation is complete. Cold crash a couple weeks later.

Well, a cream ale should have almost no hop presence at all so maybe you should be targeting a pale ale instead.

Had this beer in Austin this past weekend and it's probably my fave pale ale of all time. Super refreshing. The description makes me think it's got some Falconers Flight and Centennial in it, with maybe 2-row and a very light dosage of crystal 10 or 20. Anyone had this beer?

Looks good but get rid of the carapils, you definitely don't need it. Also might ditch the flaked wheat, but prob no big deal.

According to a random guy on the Internet seven years ago, this is the recipe: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/ballast-points-sculpin-ipa.228765/