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Have you tried grain conditioning? You add a small amount of water via spray bottle while mixing the grain and letting the husks hydrate for 10-15 minutes. The most noticable effects from my experience are that I can have my mill gap as tight as it will go and still have beautiful intact husks...

It looks like they use a lot of mosaic, citra and amarillo. Just so happens to be a few of my favorites. As far as how much of each to use, that depends on your taste. I tend to use mosaic and amarillo liberally while I use citra sparingly (it can easily overpower just about anything) My got...

No such thing as "the best"... What type of IPA are we talking? West coast? English? East coast? NEIPA? It all comes down to what you want in an IPA. I'm sure many will share their favorite hop bills if they know what your goal is.

Not sure where the concern with using a blow-off comes from. Just remember, there's nothing worse than coming home to find the carboy bung (or bucket lid) 20 feet from the fermenter and beer on the ceiling, walls and floor (don't ask how I know). Glass carboys can also suffer catastrophic...

The 5 gallon carboy should be fine for 3-4 gallon batches. Just don't bother with regular airlocks, get a blow-off tube setup from the start.

They do list those ingredients, but I doubt that's an all-inclusive list. I could be wrong, but I would bet my favorite dog there is an adjunct in there, they just aren't advertising it. I would doubt they could get much aroma or flavor from 7 ibu's, so the galena is out of the question as you...

In the future, you might consider making a tincture. Just soak your flavoring in vodka for a week or more. You can then add small amounts of the resulting liquid to a sample of beer and taste until you know how much to add to the full batch for your taste. Wood can harbor some spoilage...

You're probably tasting the most flavorful ingredient in Miller... the carbonation! 🤣

Agreed, maybe consider another sanitizer to get what starsan doesn't. I recently had a couple infections (first time in 8 years of homebrew) I switched from starsan to iodophor. Long story short, back to normal!

What connects your tubing from the kettle to the fermenter? Siphon or ball-valve? If it's a ball-valve, have you ever disassembled it for cleaning? Also, how well do you rinse PBW from equipment? PBW needs to be rinsed very well with hot water to get rid of it's soapy residue... If you are...

I don't see a lot in your process for off-flavor development, but contamination could be a culprit. How do you get your wort from the boil kettle to the fermenter? How do you clean/sanitize the equipment that has contact with cooled wort?

How are you measuring gravity? If it's with a hydrometer, have you checked its accuracy with distilled water (it should read 1.00 at the hydrometers calibrated temp)? If the beer is indeed at 1.014, the attenuation is a little low for s-04, but it's darn close and will probably be good, just a...

I'll take a code! Thank you!!

I'd stick with the recipe the first time you brew it. Changes can then be made based on the outcome. I would add the citra on day 3 and the mosaic as soon as primary winds down. 5-7 days after the mosaic addition, the hops should settle enough to remove both additions together with the...

I have done this and it worked great, although it was more math than I usually care to do. I just made a sugar solution with a known amount of sugar (I forget but it was the max sugar that could be dissolved in water 2gram/ml?) I then used a syringe to precisely shoot my desired amount into...

I used to buy 50lb sacks online, but have lately started buying from my LHBS. I just take my 5-gallon grain buckets in and fill up with what I want. This has given me the flexibility to have 3-4 base grains on hand at any time. I also take smaller containers to fill with specialty malts. If...

For the first tap, you need a shank with a barb for the beer line size you use. They are sold straight in varying lengths, or with the barb at a 90° angle (like the one on your other tap). I've posted a link below that will show you the anatomy of the set-up...

He stated he missed his sparge temp by 8 degrees. His mash temp was not 160, and even if it was 155-158, he should have gotten way better than 1.042 (like 1.020ish) There is something else at play, unless as stated, the measurement of fg is off... Edit: 1.026ish with the lactose

Did you make water additions (gypsum, calcium chloride, epsom, baking soda)? If not, you ph was probably way out of range and you are likely missing some important nutrients for the yeast (RO water is close to distilled)

Start using campden as dmtaylor says. Your chloride, sulfate are in check and you could certainly use more of one or both depending on what you're brewing. Unfortunately, they don't give a calcium content, but considering TDS, it's on the lower side. Takeaways, use campden and a little gypsum...