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I use Fermcap-S for the same reason as the OP. Two points to add to the thread: Even refrigerated and shaken before use, there is a shelf life. So if it clumps or gets mold, replace it! Second, there is a maximum amount you can use due to the nature of the product. To be sure that there is no...

There's a brief description on the page now: I like the design and convoluted inner tubing. But I'm not going to put copper anywhere in my system, so will wait on a SS version. Longer total length would be good too. I'm currently using an all stainless Exchillerator, which gets the job done...

^^^ That it is!

I use both electric RIMS (maintain temp) and propane direct heat (step mash) on a 15G Spike w/ TC fittings. I can manage 10G batches provided I don't want too high an OG. For 15G, or higher gravity, you would obviously need something larger. I had Spike add a second port at the top of the MT...

I use a RIMS system and conditioning helps me get consistent flow through the grain bed during the mash. Two things: 1) don't use too much water or you gum up the mill. 2) it takes some time after conditioning for the malt to soften. For me, usually about 20 mins while strike water is heating...

The grist seems witbier-ish to me. And Witbier is my wife's favorite (well, really only beer she will drink--wine person). I've had Sabro in the freezer waiting for a project, so... this might go into the queue! Whether or not to switch in WLP-400 yeast is the question.

I have that same dumping going on in my yard. This page shows some pH and nutrients requirements that might be helpful. +1 on a raised bed or mound to get the hops started, but letting them grow into the soil. "The rootstock is an underground structure consisting of both rhizomes (with buds)...

There are tables online for freezing temperature vs glycol concentration. Here's one: Glycol-Freeze-Point. From that, it looks like your 30% solution is good to about -13*C (8*F). AFAIK, there is are a couple of tradeoffs to glycol ratio: 1) glycol is more viscous than water, so makes the...

I usually run the chiller 10*C below the set temp for the beer. There has to be a decent temperature difference for the heat transfer rate to be adequate. Given that you want your fermenter at 4*C, try setting the chiller around -5*C. Your glycol shouldn't freeze until -9*C, so that leaves a few...

I haven't dumped it yet--and it has improved over a few weeks. But it just tastes "wrong", so it's likely to go when I need the room. I previously "burped" from the bottom of the fermenter (post 26 in this thread). Sounds like you have given up on the recirculation, so perhaps I'll go back to...

OK, I decided to give DH recirculation a try. Unfortunately, I missed noting the schedule described above, so after dumping yeast and with a very heavy DH load, I recirculated for 8 hours at a 50% duty cycle (i.e. each hour the pump was on for a half hour). YUCK! Not only over hopped but way...

I had a Fermzilla for a while as a first step up from "SS brew buckets" to test pressure fermentation. Inexpensive, worked well, easy to clean using my keg washer. Had all the bells and whistles installed including cooling coils. But dry hopping, while not impossible, was a messy PITA. Same with...

I've not used Verdant before, but reading the description I'd guess adding US-05 would reduce the yeast character and finish a bit drier. I'd probably make a starter to culture the yeast to a higher volume so I could use just one yeast, but that will take a couple of days. I've mixed yeasts...

KEG418 at morebeer. I have one empty key available, so a few quick photos of it attached.

Earlier this year I bought several new Italian made (AEB) kegs, paying the higher price specifically to get good welds.

I'd call this the steep climb of the learning curve. Since I also brew hoppy beers (check that avatar), I feel your pain. There may be more than one thing going on. Here's what comes to mind from your description: 1. You are trusting that machine to deliver consistently clean and chlorine free...

+1 on Bobby's response. I've only used LLC on hoses, but for a plastic fermenter it should work to clear beer stone. I always clean with PBW first. Attaching photos of cleaning plastic fermenter with keg washer (pump and small CIP ball).

I never had success with a 1.5" valve, so went to 2" as you are thinking. I posted a photo in #2661 (Spike Conical- observations and best practices) I still occasionally need to use a rubber mallet on the valve to get pellets dropping.

This /\. I started with the Bayou Classic and scorched more than a few boils-the heat is very centered. The Blichmann burner spreads the heat out more. I've also found that it's more efficient, reducing the amount of propane needed for a 90min boil.

I recently ordered 6 White Labs yeast packets from Williams brewing. Included the "insurance" packing with blue ice packs in the order. Shipping from Williams to me takes 2 days. When I pulled the package from my mailbox, it was 115*F outside (it gets hot here!), seemed hotter inside the...