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I have one new keg and a few used ones. Most of the used ones have some dents on the inside. Is this going to cause a problem if I use them to ferment in? Or if I use them to serve in?

I have used plastic wrap rinsed in star San when I was missing a gasket. Not ideal but it worked for hat batch.

This will work. Grey for gas and black for liquid. You will need some 3/16 beer line too. I would start with 10 ft of it. You may get too much foam if the line is too short or the faucet is warm...

I would just try one of these and find another use for the mason jar.

I thought about that but my water sucks. We use a water softener. I have been using bottled water from Target since I started brewing. I have entered a bunch of competitions and never had anyone mention metallic before. The only things that changed were fermenting in a keg and using a different...

I normally use bottled water from target. I did use a different brand than usual I think it was from Meyer.I didn’t do any water adjustments

Boiled in aluminum but I have been using the same pot for years with no problems until now

No rough spots. I thought there might be something exposed when I bent the dip tube. Until you mentioned it, I forgot that the wort was very hot going into the kegs, My chiller broke as soon as I started to cool down. I transferred hot wort to kegs because I thought I could cool it down faster...

I switched to fermenting in corney kegs and I love it. I can fit two in my chamber so I went from 5 gallons to eight gallons and can do closed transfers to avoid oxygen. I can also lower temp and add gelatin without sucking in 02. The problem is I sent a Lager into a competition and two judges...

If you add priming sugar, you’ll want to keep the keg at room temp. If you want to carbonate with gas, it needs to be cold, so you can’t really do both, unless you add priming sugar, wait two weeks and then lower the temp and hook up the gas to maintain carbonation while serving. You should fill...

I had a Lager that I kegged that had a strong sulfer smell. After about 10 days on CO2 it was still there. I took it out of the fridge and let it warm up overnight. Pulled the prv and let the all of the C02 out. Chilled down and hooked up to c02. Sulfer was gone. I’m not sure how you would do it...

I think consistency is more important than the actual number. It’s nice to feel like you are getting the most out of the grains, but better to end up exactly where you planned. Then you know you did the best that you could do with that recipe. I would rather be at 65 every time than sometimes 70...

You could also just fill the sink with water and use an aquarium pump. The top of it should connect to the plastic tube on your chiller

Cooling it down usually puts an end to fermentation. Your not that far along so an active fermentation might keep going. I would move to a warmer area, (50F is going to shut down ale yeast)wait a few days and take a hydrometer reading, then take another a couple of days later, if the readings...

Lots of good recipes here. Extract and all grain

I’m assuming the two row is American. If so, substitute marris otter and use an English crystal. Also, just want second that English yeast is mandatory if you want to make an English beer. It looks like you have your software set to American pale. Change it to English pale. Your ABV and IBU’s...

I have heard Jamil say that Bret would clean up oxidation. I don’t remember which show.

No, you need to get to below at least 50F and leave it for 24 hours

The best money I spent on brewing equipment was $40 for a small dented freezer on Craigslist, $35 for and inkbird dual temp controller and a $ 19 for a brew band heater. I also went to BIAB before I did any of this. I love it but the focus on fermentation made a bigger difference in my beer than...