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Well, I'm not saying that boiling specifically changes anything. I'm saying if I mash the exact same recipe twice but use different amounts of water to mash, the calculators are going to tell me to use different amounts of salts (target the same pH). But if I boil both down to exactly the same...

I played around with the water chemistry calculators and I noticed that they recommend a certain amount of salts based on how much water is used to mash and sparge. But I couldn't help to think about post boil volume. Let's say for example I make the same recipe twice to come up with the same...

Count me in! Thanks!

That's why it probably makes more sense to suffer with the lower efficiency and use more base malt than have to boil down more than 6 gallons.

Would mashing this at 148F be too low?

Those 27 lbs of grain need to give me like an OG of 1.120 and hoping for it to finish at around 1.030. What mashing temp do you think is best to get to 1.030 with this monster? I'm planning to use US05.

I've never made one before so I'll have to look up how to do it.

Thanks! I'll adjust my corona mill to crush finer. I'm also going to have to attach a drill to that mill for those 27 pounds!

So basically what this chart is telling me is that my efficiency sucks. I do a mash and a single sparge. So theoretically that brew with the 14# of grain should have given me much higher efficiency than 75%.

Damn.... I just got a hard-on lol This is why I love brewing! I love engineering, cooking, and beer. And this hobby puts it all together for me! :)

I am planning to make the 999 barleywine and the recipe calls for 27lbs of grain. My typical efficiency for a 15lb grist is around 75%. So it seems like the expected efficiency for this BW is like 65%. I am imagining that if I knock down the amount of base malts, then my efficiency will go...

I might just get this Coleman Xtreme 52qt cooler to do the barleywine. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-52-Quart-Xtreme-5-Day-Heavy-Duty-Cooler-Blue/21721549

The bag might be. The reason why this topic is coming to my mind is because I want to make a barelywine that has like 25 lbs of grain. I would imagine this might be the absolute limit for a 10 gallon cooler. But then I was thinking it would be much easier to stir in a square cooler because...

I don't have a false bottom because I use a large grain bag. So essentially I do BIAB in a cooler. I guess the depth of a round cooler makes it easy to use with a bag. I am sparging as well. How important is retaining temp during sparging?

I got my round cooler like 5 years ago... I regret not getting a bigger square one. I should have done more research back then lol

now I'm wondering if I made a mistake getting a round cooler. Maybe I should have gotten a bigger square cooler because it seems like there is more space to stir and work the grain in. But why do the vast majority of people use round coolers? Retains heat better? Allows for more depth?

Is anyone still drinking this after 10 years or so? I'm thinking about brewing this... is it worth it?

I wanna give it a try! This is the recipe: 23.0 lbs Pale Ale 2.0 lbs Munich Malt 6.0 oz Pale Chocolate 4.0 oz Special B - Caramel malt 12.0 oz Crystal Malt 80°L 1.5 lbs White Table Sugar (Sucrose) 1.66 oz Magnum (14.5%) - added during boil, boiled 60 min 1.0 oz Centennial (10.0%) - added...

Never brewed a porter before so I want to try my hand at one. Maybe I should look for a recipe that is intended to finish at around 1.020.

I know this is a relatively new yeast but I wanted to get some feedback. First of all, would it make a good yeast for a porter? Second of all, it says that it is a low attenuating yeast, probably to keep FG slightly high for more residual sugars. If this doesn't make a good porter yeast, what...