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The floor corker did not come with a capper, it's an optional accessory. But the standard capper accessory has a bell that works with 12oz bottles. You'll need a 29mm bell for champagne bottles in addition to the capper attachment. Morebeer has both together for $20...

With zero skills, the Johnson Controls A419 with the pre-wired power and outlet cords are a safe bet - http://www.learntobrew.com/store/item/35045/-_Thermostats/A419_Refrigerator_or_Freezer_Thermostat_Digital_Temperature_Controller.html With a little research and patience, you could easily...

I have a floor corker that I use to bottle both 12oz and champagne bottles. The standard capper was for 12oz bottles, and I think it's 26mm, not 30mm as you mention. I bought an additional bell for the 29mm caps needed for the champagne bottles. It threads on in place of the standard bell. I...

I hope that even if it's foamy, it still tastes great! First, finding a leak isn't too tough - I know because I had several during the set up and "break in" of my keezers. Get a spray bottle and put a couple of tablespoons of Dawn dish liquid in it (any liquid will work, but Dawn seems to work...

Here's a possible solution - https://www.cool-brewing.com/ It's a soft sided "ice chest" made for homebrewers. Stick a few frozen 2 ltr. bottles in the cooler, and rotate them in and out as they melt. Best of luck!

There could be a couple of things going on. The first is that the middle of a fermenting batch will almost always be warmer than the outside surfaces. Fermentation generates heat. The other is that your controller may not be calibrated correctly. You should test it by measuring the...

My guess is that there was no live yeast when you bottled - four months in the primary probably killed it all, and adding conditioning tabs won't have any effect but to sweeten the beer. Here's an idea I've not tried, but might be worth further exploration if you think your beer is tasty...

Yes, the dip tube may be clogged, or maybe the ball lock, or the ball lock connector. It could also be that you're out of CO2, or the CO2 valve was accidentally turned off and there's no pressure in your keg. I'd check the CO2 possibilities first. What type of beer is in the keg, and what's...

My guess is that your analysis is right on in that there are probably no fermentables left. Assuming that's the case, no yeast addition will help. At least 1.021 should not be too sweet, but not as dry as the style guidelines would suggest. Best of luck.

I love my QD's - one hand operation both on and off. I haven't used cam locks. For me, the price difference wasn't that important to me as I don't have that many connectors. But the QDs are very convenient, and on brew day cost is less valuable than ease and time.

Welcome to kegging - great way to serve beer. And yes, the kit you linked should work fine. I always use the flare nut fittings as it gives me a lot of flexibility and some peace of mine that if a valve goes, I can just thread another one on. I've never had leaks related to the flared fittings.

My guess is that the crack is more of a threat to your safety, than to the yeast. I'd finish the starter, then I'd be very careful and wear some leather gloves - but continue as normally. One thing you might consider if the crack looks like it shed any glass inside would be to pour the starer...

Grainger

I wouldn't risk it - seems like very little value. You might try making a starter out of them and using it in your next brew. You might need to make a stepped starter to get them back to viable pitching rates, but if it works, you're a few $ ahead.

When you say "I turned the air on", I'm guessing you mean oxygen, not air. I'm pretty sure those filers are designed to be used with pressures that aquarium pumps can produce pumping air, and not designed to be used with compressed oxygen. The intent is to filter out potential contaminants...

If your airlock is bubbling, there's probably a blanket of CO2 on top of the cider - you should be fine.

If you have another keg, you could rack the beer into it before you bottle and that should eliminate most of the hops sediment. I have an extra "out" dip tube that I cut off about 1.5" just for this type of problem, and that works pretty well, too. In either case, you may want to shoot the...

Here's my Drink Tank!! It's awesome. I have both this growler and the Tap-it-Cap. The Tap-it-Cap holds growler pressure, but this has the "awesome" factor. I don't think this would work as a force carb tank as the pressure relief valve is set about 10 psi. I force carb in Corny kegs at much...

I agree - you are probably OK. This might not be the best beer you'll make, but it will probably be just fine. Without knowing the gravity when you started, it'll be tougher to be sure about the end, but not impossible. Did the kit have a target FG? If not, I'd let it sit for two weeks...

I'll qualify my comments by saying I've not used a Coopers kit, but I have brewed a few dozen batches of beer - both from kits and all-grain. When did you take your first reading? A good practice is to take an initial reading after your wort has been cooled, and just as you're putting it into...