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That's a pretty good price. Yeah, those are both from BrainyTrade; that's where I got mine.

Yep. Or a bag of grain. Which is why I went with the Auber for my second one. I'm glad I did, I do like it better. But compared to $20-25 for the MyPin... if I was going to buy one just for temp readout, I'd get the TD4 (or even TA4) instead of $40 for the Auber. You should post that sellers...

Thanks. I'm definitely happy with how it turned out, and with how it is working for me. I have been contemplating doing away with the eStop and fitting another PID (or temp display) in it's place just for monitoring mash temps, but that would be a ways off. All told, they are extremely similar...

I would be cautious about that listing/seller. The photo is obviously doctored (look at the ssr label), and there are a few "counterfeit" negative feedback comments on other items from the seller.

Over in the Bottling/Kegging section of this forum they have a Chest Freezer Spec/Layout sticky thread. They don't list that specific model, but they do have the 7.2cf version. It looks like you might be able to get 4 ball locks and the 10# in there, but it might need a collar. If you go for...

Full Pint Brewing in Pittsburgh makes a Holiday ale called "Festivus".

I'm in

Yes.

The new control panel for my current Brutus 20, and future HERMS.

The new control panel for my current Brutus 20, and future HERMS.

The new control panel for my current Brutus 20, and future HERMS.

So I had to move my ebrewery (again) because my ventilation plans failed. Since I was moving it, I decided to upgrade my old control panel. I always had intentions of adding a second PID temperature controller and building a full eHERMS, and I decided to get started on that plan. I bought the...

I bit the bullet and blew the money on the Brewmation ones. My wallet is not happy, but I am.

They are. I use them in mine and they work great. They are switch and lamp in one, which is why they require a neutral. I was just looking at your home made diagram again; disconnect just the alarm from the "temperature controller" and try again. Here is a diagram that is more along...

He said in a previous post that he's not using the 2352, but the SWA-24X2C. Not sure what's going on with that little switch on the alarm, but maybe the OP will post his own schematic. I think it is common practice (well... especially here) to call them PID. Auber calls them "PID Controllers"...

Why? There is no reason to do that. If you are following P-Js schematic, you should be following P-Js schematic. That specific diagram is for those specific switches. His switch connections are: PID power - hot(black) to 23, 24 to 110v of PID. Jump 24 to X2(black). X1 to neutral(white)...

In defense of some of the harsh comments; this seriously could be life threatening, for both you and your family. Dudes are just looking out for you. Which is it? Not the same. Something about this does not look right to me. Is this the SYL-2352? If so, you should check the locations of...

READ THIS (or google Tom Hargrave Kegkits) It should help you understand a little bit more. ;)

That's the one that started this thread.

Does anyone have any experience with the one High Gravity sells?