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Okay, well Kölsch is per definition an ale - that is you're making a european ale, not a lager. As for the yeast-issue why don't you just try a completely regular strain like S-05 or Notty? A yeast with a general consensus of reliability an clean flavor (Repacked yeast is always a warning...

Cheers! This is pretty much my exact procedure for pilot-brewing apart from my kitchen stove setup being 2.5 gal! Great idea with the oven to avoid heat loss during mashing :mug: Regarding the grain bag I normally turn the kitchen tap to maximum an try to flush it from the inside out. This...

You're fermenting at way to high for a lager yeast! (On the other hand you may have a traditional "european" steam beer) - What yeast are you using? You're also trying to turn out a pilsner in less than a month - that's not recommendable..

Make one. 10 gram of table sugar in 100 ml of regular water should be just around 1.030. And I don't really see when the 1.140-1.180 range should be useful in terms of brewing beer. I'd stick with the one you got.

That's great! I'm looking forward to tasting notes. Don't forget to let it attenuate completely before bottling. Also cold crashing is (as always) a good idea!

This seems a bit to fast (normally it more like 4 days to 2 weeks) - at what temp did you finish your fermentation? at what temp did you bottle? How much priming sugar did you use?

FG is reached - fermentation is done..

Yes - The priming process is essentially that of regular fermentation Sugars --> Ethanol + CO2 (which under pressure results in carbonation).. Depending on how much priming sugar you use it's somewhere between 0.2% and 0.35% ABV..

I brewed an IPA three weeks ago using Notty and today finally got around to dry hop it, when I discovered a potential problem.. When I draw a sample to day it smelled very yeasty?? (like sniffing to the rehydrated yeast or baking yeast) - It was also slightly present in the taste I think...

Some hops are harsh in late additions.. Using Target at flame out proved that lesson to me (not a bad beer but a notable tea-ish flavor).. I wouldn't worry too much - your beer will have completely transformed after the fermentation.. Consider doing some dry hopping with a "safe choice"...

Or buy a decent pH-meter and simply titrate lactic or phosphoric acid in until hitting 5.2 to 5.4.. Remember to acidify your sparge water as well (normally below 6 is recommended) here it is even more simple just to titrate the acid..

2.5 gal of extensively aroma-hopped Monteuka/centennial APA..

I did almost this - Using Meales West Coast yeast and Centennial for bittering (not Chinook) since it was already open.. Thanks!

I'm brewing tonight but I don't know what to brew.. I've got this in stock: Malt: Basic (pale/pils), carapils, carared, melanodin, torrified wheat and munich-2 Hops: Citra, Centennial, Cascade, Moteuka and Chinnok Yeast: Safale s-04, Safale us-05, Safbrew wb-06, Meales (bry-97)...

Contamination is not an issue at boiling temps..

A word of advice.. I'll properly get heat for this on HBT but this is one of the reasons I never use no-rinse as a "no-rinse".. I always rinse my bottles afterwards with boiling water.. (It's clean and without chemicals) As I see it we're exposed to enough artificial stuff as it is and there's...

I'm about to bottle a pale ale that (in my taste) went slightly to the dry side.. Which sugar/fermentable option is best to add a bit of sweetness to the beer?

Could you give a reference here?

Ok. Cold crash at 35-40 F will likely do the trick?

Yep! I've used 0.5oz before but with whole cones (and only had a very small effect) - I was trying to avoid repeating that.. I suppose I missed the part about pellets giving of significantly more than cones!