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I think you can google diffusion rates through various plastics (permeability), but I'm pretty sure that with most any material to get a macroscopic volume through you'd need a large area and/or a very thin membrane and/or very high pressure difference. A small leak at a barb connection seems...

Supposedly the wort drips down on the outside! It's not exactly low oxygen brewing... At least that is what these guys say: Brauerei im Technikmuseum - Die Müggelland-Brauerei . It's an article about the old Schultheiss small batch pilot brewery that has been moved to a technical museum in...

I now also roasted a pound of the other $3.99/lb coffee I got from Burman's, a Brazilian Mogiana 17/18. I roasted both the Colombian and the Brazilian a bit towards the darker side, but not black. A few beans have oil on the surface. (My DeLonghi Magnifica doesn't like too much oil on the...

Just FYI, the slotted lauter manifold in my mash tun is also copper. It's true that I have no copper present when I'm boiling the wort.

This might be a good document to look at: http://www.galvanizeit.com/uploads/resources/astm-a-967.pdf Somebody (RPH?) posted a talk from a NASA dude who didn't agree 100% with the engineers in Conshohocken (not making this up, that's the name of the town; apparently it means 'pleasant valley')...

Depending on what you ferment, and what kind of space you have available (basement with drain?), cooling with a small flow of tap water might do the job. I have a short copper loop in my (glass carboy) fermenter, and an external copper loop taped with aluminum tape (for A/C ducts, I think) to...

That's why I said 140F.

I think just keeping all surfaces wet, by occasionally sloshing the citric acid around, should do it. 5% citric acid (just like lemon juice, but as somebody pointed out, if you need more than a cup then making your own 5% solution from citric acid makes sense economically) at 140F for an hour...

+1 on highest, but not higher than necessary.

I have a copper loop in my fermenter, and there is plenty of banana; as I mentioned I'm trying to get away from it, by tweaking my mash profile. Jayjay's troubles seem to be a total fluke; usually people complain about too much banana (which really is an off flavor, if you think about it; just...

I think you want a bleed valve at the very top. So higher is better. In the talk posted by mojo, they comment on piping so that any trapped air has a clear path (always rising) to a bleed valve at the top. (They might not say it like that, but that is what they mean...)

For the CO2, check local welding supply stores. They might have used steel cylinders, and might also be cheaper for refills (with food grade CO2) than your local beverage or brewing supply place. Regarding kegs, you don't have to fill them all the way. That way (not completely filled) you have...

If you close what I assume is the bypass valve, you will get less (or no) flow by the temp gauge, and the pressure gauge reading might also change, depending on the pressure drop in your feed manifold. So, I'd move those sensors right behind the supply, or right before the common return.

Maybe it's a message that mais/maize/corn doesn't belong in beer...

This reminds me: Back in the Facebook days, there was this deal of unfriending somebody for a free hamburger; now that was something! Burger King offered it: Delete 10 Facebook friends, get a free Whopper Unfortunately I was already on the way out from facebook back then, and had already...

Now I feel like I beached myself at the shallow end of the internet pool.

I would not use a coffee grinder already used for coffee. Or any coffee grinder. That just seems like the wrong process. A meat grinder attachment for a food processor might work. A ball mill. A rock polisher. A steam roller on one of those big metal sheets they use to cover holes in the road...

Maybe putting the grains in a plastic bag and pounding them with a meat tenderizer would work? Or a pasta maker, assuming those have sub-millimeter settings? Otherwise, I'd say 'well played' to your Id/subconscious: sounds like you're pretty much forced to buy a grain mill now, in order not to...

I usually buy just enough for one brew at one of my local shops, and make/follow my own 'kit' list: grains - hops - yeast. Last time I was able to re-use yeast, so now I have a 'safety pack' of yeast in the fridge. It can also make sense to keep a bit of hops around. Grain would take up too much...

Why would he need a racking arm if he has a dump valve at the very bottom?