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16 gauge will work. The support base will hold 90% of the weight.

It will. I've seen some very large perforated SS false bottoms. Make sure the supporting base is adequately designed and use a heavier gauge sheet.

BKF Paste on a Q-tip should reach inside the intake.

The OP didn't say what your efficiency was. So, it sounds like your efficiency was higher than expected. 10 or 12 gallon batch? What is the MLT? Cooler or kettle? What went into the mash? How much water and grain? What was the intended volume of sparge water? Do you have ball valves on...

I run a very large heat sink that sits right on top of my 50a panel. It get's pretty hot during the boil. It get's close to 100 degrees for sure. When I have both elements running it's over 110 degrees for sure. If you touch it you know it's hot. Those heat sinks may not be the best choice...

If you have some BKF you can polish that right off. Looks like left overs from the tooling process.

Have you figured out your brew house efficiency? Without knowing more about your brewery, the processes, and recipe calculations. It sounds like you need to lower the brew house efficiency in your brewing software. If you are reaching 1.010 before pre-boil volume it's not a sparge issue...

I had very similar issues. I had some loose or broken solders where the wire connects to the quick release fitting. Even with Stainless wire and heat shrink support the weight of the connector slowly started to fracture the solder. They would work fine. Then you would bump a cable and the...

I heard a pod cast with Cigar City Brewing mid 2010. They gave out the Jai Alai recipe. The main point is they talked about their Humidor Series which had the Jai Alai with Spanish Cedar. They said it was the exact same recipe just with Spanish Cedar. I'm sure the recipe has changes in 7 or...

The two pump back to back is kind of limited if your are using the second pump for chilling or whirlpooling. I switched back to my immersion chiller to free up my second pump. Once the boil is on both pumps are free in my case. With Texas groundwater, it's a real chore to chill below 80F...

I'm no metallurgist but if I had to make an educated guess. The shearing of the metal leaves inclusions around the edges that tear when flared. Using a bit tool will leave a more rounded edge a lot less likely to leave inclusions in the steel. In this application, it's the size of the hole...

Water adjustments really depend on the style of beer you are brewing. If you trust your water report then use it. Tap water is cheap. I've done everything from 100% RO build up to 100% tap water to a blend of each to reach my desired water profile. Of late I've been doing more 100% RO build...

I would not recommend making mineral adjustments when extract brewing. You don't know what minerals were in the water used to make the extract. I recommend using RO or distilled water only. A mini-mash 1# of munich is not worth the time or efforts. Just order the equivalent in munich extract...

3 minutes a complete waste of Oxygen! The charts I've seen show a 24 second burst in 5 gallons of 1.054 wort is around 13.2 ppm. Beers around 1.050, I do 30 seconds. Bigger beers above 1.060ish, I do 60 seconds. Super big beers 1.090 and above, I do 60 seconds right at pitch and 30 seconds...

Do not use tap water because the chlorine/chlorides could affect aroma/taste. Use RO or distilled water for sure. You are trying to rinse away any left over cleaner/sanitizer residue left on the glassware. So, spraying with Starsan would be defeating the entire purpose of rinsing the glass...

Nope no problem at all. I don't have a wand. Stone, tubing, regulator, no issues. Even thou the stone is stainless it doesn't like to sink. So, I have to put a little more tubing into the wort to get it to the bottom. If I ever run across a small piece of 1/4" SS tubing, I plan to do exactly...