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  1. R

    Extended mash on Eherms

    Mash out is to denature the enzymes. If you have any enzymes active or anything for the enzymes to act on after a 6 hour mash I would be rather surprised.
  2. R

    Taking FG reading

    The bubbling in the airlock is for the entertainment of the brewer. It doesn't indicate fermentation nor the end of fermentation. Changes in temperature or air pressure can cause bubbling or the lack of bubbling. Only a steady hydrometer reading is a definite way to tell if fermentation is...
  3. R

    Extended mash on Eherms

    Your mash conversion will continue until the enzymes are denatured. Depending on the quality of the crush, that may take less than the 90 minutes. From then on not much will happen except some evaporation.
  4. R

    Taking FG reading

    My beers have never failed to carbonate even when left in the fermenter for 9 weeks.
  5. R

    Fermentation and Conditioning

    70 degrees for conditioning will be fine. So would 75. No reason to change the setting though. Cold crashing is better the colder you can get it but setting the control too close to freezing may cause freezing. Somewhere between 35 and 40F should work.
  6. R

    DIY airlock for small bottles and small auto siphon ideas?

    It's not often that a solution to a problem can be quick, easy, and cheap but the solution to fermenting it bottles is to stretch a balloon over the neck. This allows the excess CO2 to escape slowly while limiting the amount of air. As CO2 is produced the balloon inflates. When CO2 is no...
  7. R

    Advanced extract brewing

    The mash needs minerals in the water. Extract does not.
  8. R

    Advanced extract brewing

    I have some other ideas. Blow your monthly brewing budget on a Corona style mill and set it as tight as it gets. Blow your next months brewing budget on a pair of paint strainer bags (they come 2 in a package in most places, some will have a 5 pack or even more). Mill your grains and heat...
  9. R

    Grain crush

    There are two ways to determine full or nearly full conversion. One is to test for the presence of residual starches using iodine. Take a small amount from the mash that includes lots of grain. Drop a drop of iodine on it. If there is starch there iodine will turn blue. The second method is...
  10. R

    Your experiences with mashing high to brew low abv beer?

    I believe the answer to the SO4 is correct, it cannot break down maltotriose so it will not ferment it out, leaving your beer have more sweetness.
  11. R

    Grain crush

    The fineness of the crush will determine how long it will take for full conversion and somewhat control the efficiency of the mash. With a very fine milling the conversion happens way quicker than most of you would believe. As the milling becomes more coarse, it takes longer for the starches...
  12. R

    Your experiences with mashing high to brew low abv beer?

    I find that getting sweeter beer is easy to control by utilizing caramel malts. The amount of sweetness and other flavors can be controlled by the amounts and type of caramel malt and the consistency of the results can be better because the caramel malts are carefully controlled by very...
  13. R

    Unusual Mash Problem

    A better idea is to leave the heater turned off. Unless you are constantly and vigorously stirring while heating you will have a temperature differential with the bottom being above the temperature that denatures the enzymes needed for coversion. If the falling temperature bothers you a lot...
  14. R

    Safeale us05, no bubble out of the tube after 2 days!

    Two items for you. 1. A tiny leak lets the CO2 escape without making the airlock bubble. 2. The yeast only produce CO2 during the early part of fermentation. With your beer that part is probably nearly complete so without the huge amount of CO2 being produced any more, the small leak causes...
  15. R

    First kit (Blonde) Finished, what are your tips?

    Here's a good way to start your brewing of beer. www.howtobrew.com While this edition of the book is free thanks to the generosity of John Palmer, newer versions are better but are not free.
  16. R

    When do you start temperature control?

    Rehydrating the yeast is a special case where the warmer water rehydrates faster. I try to bring the wort below the recommended range by a degree or 2 before pitching the yeast knowing that when the yeast get started they will warm the beer a bit, putting the beer temp in the preferred range...
  17. R

    new to brewing beer

    Since 1.000 is the gravity of pure water I suspect it won't ferment. How did you get that starting gravity?
  18. R

    Software to Create Labels

    I've used Beer Labelizer: Create Homebrew Labels for Free but then I quit labeling the bottles as I am the only one drinking the beer.
  19. R

    Density decreases but no bubbles

    Yes, something is happening. Your bucket lid is leaking the CO2 around the lid so none of it is escaping through the bubbler. No problem, your brew has its gravity falling so the yeast are eating the sugars and turning them into alcohol. Ignore it for another week or 2, take a couple gravity...
  20. R

    Amber Ale with flavor gaps??

    Little things add up. Since you said you did this batch BIAB, how finely was it milled? If it was coarsely milled it will take longer to gelatinize the malt which then delays the conversion and makes it more difficult to extract the sugars. Since it takes longer you added heat. Unless you...
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