Search results

Better yet, find a gallon of untreated cider, pitch yeast AND nutrients into that, and let her rip. Add that whole gallon of active fermenting cider to the mess you have and hope for the best. I have successfully overcome sorbated cider by doing this, but have never had to try after 6 weeks...

Daeaye- Just saw that loveofrose has a post called 'Mead University'. I clicked on it, and strongly recommend you do too! Very helpful read that covers basically everything. He is also the originator of the Bray's one month mead thread, and really knows his stuff.

Looks like a great Christmas gift to me. So Thank you everyone else for dropping out! ;)

I forgot to add, DO your research ahead of time- spend a lot of time on this forum, just reading. Ken Schramm's book 'The Complete Meadmaker' is a great read and is considered the bible.

Welcome Daeaye. Mead is a good first choice, because it's simple. No cooking. I do 1 gallon batches, which I suggest you start with. 3 lb. of honey, which happens to be right around 1 qt. Enough water to make the volume 1 gallon, then add maybe 1 pint more- I'll get to the reason later. OG will...

Agreed. With a multiple addition nutrient schedule, most of my meads (even big boys) reach terminal gravity within 5-7 days. Not saying they're done then, but FG is reached.

Denny talks about doing things simply. I do things cheaply. Still working with my original bucket fermenter from 2011 ((I do have others), carboys given to me (them babies are expensive), my original Denny-style cooler mashtun, and 4 muck buckets that are used as swamp coolers in all seasons of...

That's where the water bath bucket works well. Unless that freezes to the bottome, the lowest temp you'll get is 32*F. And it'll stay very stable within a degree or two.

Ok, maybe I'm missing something here, or maybe everyone else is missing something (less likely). The purpose of lagering is to cold condition, so why would one possibly need a heating source- blanket, heat wrap or anything else? I do my lagers in December just for this reason. After fermenting...

OH absolutely! Good point!

With all my lagers and altbiers, I do a one step decoction, from 145 ->155. I started doing it because I wanted to do a step mash from 145 to 155 and didn't have enough room in my mashtun to add more boiling water. I also add anywhere from 3% (alts) to 5% (bocks) of melanoidin malt. My...

Smoked a Turkey breast as a supplement to the main bird done the traditional way.

With a SG of 1.030 (I assume your using a hydrometer and not a refractometer) she's not done by a long shot. Closer to 1.000 or even lower would be expected. If you bottle now, you're asking for trouble. You agitate them by bottling and they just might kick back in to spite your treatment of...

Partially depends on the yeast you used, but my guess is that if you didn't stabilize it with metabisluphite and sorbate, by the time you read this , she'll be perking again. Which is OK. Just let her go until (your next) completion, then rack and stabilize.

Maybe an overly simple answer- don't drink so much, and you won't get hangovers.

I'm sorry O.P., but the questions you're asking are VERY basic. Questions that most homebrewers/cider makers are able to answer for themselves after just a few batches, and a little research. Are you sure you are ready for commercial production?

I do 1 gallon batches and always start with 1 G plus 1qt. At 1st racking, I save the extra (anywhere from 1 pint-1 qt) in the frig., and use that for topoffs on future rackings.

313.2 +2G Maryland Merlot Pyment = 315.2

An old T-shirt works well too.

The first week fermenting, I stir 2-3 times daily to degas. Then let it sit for 2-3 weeks before racking to my carboys. But , as above, time is important- I usually rerack 2-3 times over a 3-4 month period before bottling.