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Ok. So I'm back to the beer gun idea. I will let it ferment all the way out and taste. I can then back sweeten to taste. Cold crash, carb, use the beer gun to bottle, then let what I'm not going to drink warm to storing temp.

So I am a beer brewer dipping my toe into cider making. The whole fact that cider ferments down to nothing is throwing me for a loop. I have two 6-gal carboys of fermenting cider and I still don't know what I am doing with it. I am shooting for sweet or semi-sweet ciders. My original plan...

Ummm.....oh ya..... I actually just realized that and was trying to figure out how to delete this thread. You're quick yooper! Thanks though.

Will the pectin sold in the canning section of walmart or grocery store work for adding to a hard cider? The ingredients listed are dextrose, fruit pectin, and citric acid.

This makes me think that my original thought process about this was correct. If I hit the initial temp right on the money and stop the mash at 1 hr (before it has a chance to further break down the medium chains as you indicated), then the beer should have more body compared to starting at a...

I think I have beersmith set right. Although I'm still getting proficient with the program so I could have it screwed up (also beersmith isn't exactly an intuitive program in my opinion...but that's another thread topic). I will go in and verify. I have 2 questions though. Is there a limit...

I am using a herms system and continuously recirc with a pump. However it takes time to ramp up the temp as it usually drops too low. Beersmith has been saying start at 168 but I guess I need to start higher? I will also start pre-heating my tun ( I am using an uninsulated keggle as a mash...

I have a question about mash temps. I have been trying to hone in on my mask temps for awhile now. I just switched to all-grain but before that I was doing BIAB and I had the same problem. If a recipe calls for 154 deg, I would usually start out at around 149 and slowly ramp up to 154ish...

I'm about to brew this now. Did you brew with this hops schedule? How did it turn out?

Thanks

It should be from the same batch as mine was built up from a can from my april trip up there. Not that it should matter but I slanted the conan. So mine should also be from the same generation. Consider it confirmed:D

I can't recall exactly but I think you got your conan from the same batch as I did. My HT clone has cleared in less than a week after I chilled it. It's not crystal clear yet but it's pretty clear. The pic shows my clone on the left next to a heady I got around 2 weeks ago.

Great point. I forgot to mention I am not direct firing my tun. I am using a herms. I understand the reasoning behind the full diameter false bottom. Do you think it will work if I try this one out prior to getting another one?

I got this false bottom from Adventures in Homebrewing: http://www.homebrewing.org/10-Stainless-Steel-Flat-False-Bottom-for-keg-kettles_p_1009.html I was planning on using it with a dip tube in my keg mash tun. However the site says its not supposed to be used in a mash tun. Is that because...

This is going off memory, but I think the conversion from grain to dme is 2/3. So 12lbs of 2-row would be 8 lbs of dme. Add that to the 2 lbs already in the recipe and you have 10 total pounds of dme required for 12 gal. Then take half of everything in the recipe and you should be good to go...

So I have been keeping up with this thread close to when it started. I know this question has been asked by several people and I recall the concensus being that the 300 mesh is what most people recommended. However, I have heard that it clogs but I think this is mainly folks who recirc through...

Anybody?

So I am moving up to CT and I have movers coming to pack up everything around June 24th. They are supposed to deliver our stuff on July 8th. I have around 10 pounds of hops including amarillo, citra, simcoe, which are hops I would prefer not to give up. I have them vacuumed sealed and stored...

Thanks for the response. Won't that increase my gravity? I have read you want your gravity lower to control your yeast growth on the slant. I am sure it was agar on the bottom because when I cleaned out all my vials there was a thin 'puck' of hard agar/dme at the bottom. Tiltie: I think you...

I went to a friends house and remade them. We used the same amount but we did boil the agar/dme solution for a few minutes. I think this helped prevent the agar from separating from the solution and settling at the bottom. Now I did have a problem with moisture causing my yeast to slide down...