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Taste it again when you bottle it, then skip the next month before you sample again. Big changes will happen. Those changes will continue for quite a while. I'd expect that beer to be really good in 3 to 6 months.

Some people do calendar beer drinking as you thought you wanted. Some of us like to mix it up. I had a porter on Thursday and a pale ale on Friday and I don't know for sure what I will have today. My fermentation is only controlled by the temperature of a room in my house. It gets way too...

1. Yes, the recipe is perfectly scalable. 2. a. How much water depends on the grain absorption and the amount you boil off. I bring the wort to a boil and then back off the heat to just a simmer. There is no need to boil the wort hard. 2. b. All the grains go into the mash. 2. c. The mash...

Check on the beer after 24 hours have passed and report back. Sometimes yeast takes its time to get started in a different environment. I don't get excited with my beers unless they haven't showed activity after 36 hours.

I've used 2 and 3 year old grains and they work fine. My base malts are in open bags while the specialty malts are in plastic bags with the tops tied shut.

One week. You may notice quite a change in just one week. If not, wait another. Eventually you learn how long it takes for that beer to mature. You need data points.

The major brewers will have a different process than us homebrewers and can exclude oxygen so the pale ales don't have to be terribly fresh to still have the aroma. There isn't likely to be enough difference to justify a 45 minute drive. If you have a brewpub nearby, their pale ales will be fresh.

Your juices are high in sugars so that can be the main problem. Do you take a hydrometer or refractometer of the wort after the boil but before you add any yeast. That will tell you indirectly the amount of alcohol in your beer. Take the formula (OG minus FG) times 131 (or use the calculator...

Brewing smaller batches can help as you can drink them up in a timely manner but even with the diminishing aroma the pale ales are still quite tasty. I no longer let that thought of diminishing aroma deter me from making pale ales. I just enjoy the aroma while it is present and enjoy the...

Most of us ferment without pressure and a great many ferment in buckets with leaky lids. When you brew beer your yeast produce a lot of CO2 that needs to be vented and we have airlocks for that but sometimes the bucket lids leak enough that we never seen any action in the airlock. Your cracked...

I'm similar to you, small quantity at a time brewing, slow to drink up a batch as my wife won't drink beer and I limit myself to a one bottle per day but I like a variety to choose from. Summer here is months away so I don't need to start a summer beer yet but....maybe I would like to sample...

Champagne has big bubbles because it is highly carbonated. You get to control the amount of carbonation by adding priming sugar after the cider has fully fermented and is ready to bottle Do some reading about priming and then make sure to use bottles capable of holding the pressure. Bottle...

With all this discussion of the requirements of a yeast lab, would you not be farther ahead to keep the original yeast, building it up as needed before pitching?

Prepare to bottle that beer now. It won't be helped by leaving it any longer and as mentioned, having moved it to the bottling bucket and again opened the lid to take the picture has removed any trapped CO2 and allowed bacteria in. Take a hydrometer sample before adding priming sugar and drink...

I'd suggest you only wait 4 weeks as that brown ale should mature quicker than my robust porter and that gets pretty good by 4 weeks.

Looks normal to me. Yeast rafts with possibly a bit of hops.

You might want to read through this article before you spend a lot of time setting up your yeast lab. You may not need to, http://www.woodlandbrew.com/2012/12/refrigeration-effects-on-yeast-viability.html

BIAB can be extremely efficient but you need to mill the grain properly to get that efficiency. Get a mill like this one and set it as tight as you can will still being able to turn the crank...

Bucket fermenters are widely available. Because I mostly make slightly smaller batches, I use a 5 gallon bucket that I pick up at Walmart but you will need a bigger fermenter for a 5 gallon batch. Your beer only needs to be temperature controlled during the early part of the fermentation when...

I prefer a clothespin. I also use the colthespins to close up a half package of hops until I can get another batch of beer brewed to use it up. :cool: