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It is only quite recently that the yeast manufacturers have said that pitching the dry yeast right into the fermenter is OK. I still add some air into my wort as I pour it from a couple feet above the fermenter.

You may not believe it but your beer could be at FG by the end of day 4. It still needs time in the fermenter so don't bottle early just because the hydrometer says it is OK. Let the trub the yeast stirred up have a chance to settle before bottling. You could start another beer right away...

I do use a bag and with the Corona mill I set it as tight as it goes. Lots of flour, no big particles at all. Be aware that if you do that you will soon be adjusting the amount of base malt as the mash efficiency will go way up. Since I dump everything but the grain into the fermenter, I have...

I have bottled beer after only 7 days in the fermenter and being that this is your first beer you might do that too, after all, you have no homebrew of your own to drink. One of the drawbacks of that is that not all of the trub (sediment) will have settled out in the fermenter and ends up in...

OK, you have been advised to relax. Do it. I have rehydrated my yeast, I have sprinkled it on the foam dry, I have put the yeast in the bottom of the fermenter and poured the wort on top. Every time I have gotten beer. However, no matter which way I add the yeast I don't usually see airlock...

I see some brewers talk about a 6 or 7 hour brew day and I wonder where they find all that time and what they do to make it last that long. My brew days are about 3 hours from developing the recipe to having all the equipment cleaned and put away. Here are a few of my shortcuts: 1. The time...

Cold crashing and gelatin are the ways to speed up the clearing of the beer. Time in the bottles also works. You can do any of these techniques. Whether your starsan will get sucked back from cold crashing will depend on how well sealed the fermenter is and the volume of "airspace". Unless...

Had I known you were a machinist, I would have said, "within tolerance" instead of "close enough". :p Your yeast nutrient would work good in apple cider, make some of that at the same time. Much easier than beer, just apple juice, sugar if you want, yeast nutrient, and yeast. Making your...

There is "accurate" and there is "close enough". What will you do if the original gravity is off by a tiny amount? Either way you will end up with beer.

The small amount of hops control the bitterness of the beer and one ounce is likely the right amount. The combination of the high alcohol content (about 7%), the dark malts, and the saison yeast means that this beer will take more than 3 weeks of conditioning to reach its peak flavor. Even the...

Refractometers read the refraction of light due to the sugars in the water. Tap water should not contain sugars and if the refractometer is slightly off it will not prevent you from making beer. Unless you are trying to make a very dry beer, forget the amylase enzymes. Your pale malt contains...

Next time just let it mature some in the primary, then move it to your keg for serving. The beer won't care where it matures and you avoid one transfer. I like to leave my beers in the fermenter for 3 to 4 weeks, then bottle them.

Do you mean something like this? https://tombuildsstuff.blogspot.com/2018/06/son-of-fermentation-chamber-detailed.html No, I'm sure nobody has ever done that.

For BIAB you don't need any riser. Heat the water to the proper strike temperature such that when you add the grain the mash is at the right temperature. Turn off the heat, put the bag in and stir in the grain. Wait until conversion is complete, then wait another 20 minutes for the flavors to...

Here's a good description of how yeast grow and when they produce the esters we call off flavors. You might want to start your fermentation a bit cooler. http://www.brewgeeks.com/the-life-cycle-of-yeast.html

It takes a little pressure to get the airlock to bubble and once started it may release nearly all the pressure. Then it takes a while for it to build enough for the airlock to bubble again. You may be missing it.

I don't think you understand the advice given. To get the proper bitterness to your beer you add the right amount of hops of the proper alpha acid to the boil pot and boil the wort with the hops for a period of time, usually specified as 60 minutes. That boiling drives off the aromatic oils so...

How big is the container that has the flat bottom? Can you lift it to dump? Add some boiled and cooled water, swirl it up and dump it into santized jars. Put the lids on the jars but do not tighten them, there will be some CO2 yet to expel.

Impossible to tell what can grow in the spigot. The beer itself is safe, nothing that can harm you can survive in beer but...when you are counting on 5 gallons of beer and instead get 5 gallons of malt vinegar, it is a little disheartening. Cleaning the spigot is simple and should be done...

Your beer just finished (probably finished, fermentation goes pretty fast) and your beer has a lot of material that is nearly the same density as the beer itself. It takes time for this material to settle out. That's one reason we suggest you leave your beer in the fermenter for 2 weeks or...