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today I did a pale ale that had 22 lb of grain. The cooler is large enough to do gravities of 1.065, anything bigger and ya got to do double sparges. I have a 72 QT cooler for larger beers and 15 gal batches.

Take advantage, its time to buy new equipment for outside brewing and she can't get pissed b/c it was her idea. 15 gal pot, a burner, larger cooler, and anything else you need. Take advatage you may not get another window as good as this one.:)

short answer no time won't help. skunked forever.

its really hard to over sparge. I always try to get 6.25 gals in my first runnings, and then another 6.25 gals for the second runnings. By using equal volumes for the mash runnings and sparge runnings your efficiency is maximized. This ratio for most 11 gallon batches has a qt/lb ratio of 1.7...

just a 10 gal batch of a cascade pale ale. Something to have ready in 5 weeks for easy drinking.

It all comes down to can ya tie up a a keg long term. Some beers need long term aging such as barleywines. for me anything over 1.080 is for bottles but it s all up to how many kegs do you want to tie up for aging big beers.

yep, some brews are best aged a little while others are best drank young.

homebrewers are great people, you'll have a good time I'm sure.

I believe it depends on the surface area of the heating sourse and the material of the bottom of the pot. a tri layered pot bottom transfers heat faster and more even than a single layer pot. once the bottom of the pot exceeds the size of the heating area there is no more gain on heating...

I agree with mac, use a little sugar to help dry it out. A partial mash is just a small part of the total wort. extracts tend to struggle to get down to there intended FG. the sugar should help to get to intended finish gravity and dry it out.

some brewers believe in a double sparge and others shoot for two equal volumes for the 1st and 2nd runnings. I have done it both ways and have gotten the same efficiency doing it both ways. So now I just save time and just go with making my mash in runnings and my single sparge runnings the...

dude, you must be on some great drugs.

^^^^^^ this The only way that truly has a shot of working.

sure its no problem. Besides when you mash cool like in the 140's to get high attenuation its common to mash for 90 minutes to assure complete conversion.

I use a grill spatula, the one I use is telescoping so it calapses for storage, the paddle part has slots so grain can pass throw it when stirring it works really well.

don't feel bad, we all have had that happen to us, it sucks. when ever I tap a new keg I always spray the connections and o-ring lid seal with star san, saved my butt a couple of times.

ajgeo is correct you will have to stir the water in the hlt. I built a similar system except mine is 240v with 4500w elements. If you want to keep your system cheap and simple you can design it so you just unplug one element and plug into the other element this will save you from adding...

plumber,pipefitter

fermentation times vary depending on many factors. Temp being the biggest factor. Your 67f temp in your house means your beer temp could vary well be over 70f. The yeast generates heat during fermentation.The higher the ferm temp the faster it will get done fermenting. The yeast strain also is...

with a shot gun held at my back.:D