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I'd go with the 58k btu, it'll save some time getting to a boil. Once you get to a boil you'll turn down the heat so the 38k will also work, it'll just take longer to get to boil.

Smell them, if they smell fine (probably will) you should be good.

Yes, I meant the drain valve at the bottom of the mash tun. I have no valves downstream of the pump.

Thanks everyone. I knew restriction before the pump isn't a wise decision but wasn't sure if it would create enough suction to compact the grain bed as soon as the pump was turned on.

I was wondering if the mash tun valve position (wide open, partially closed) makes a difference while recirculating? I know that flow rate should be controlled at the pump output but wasn't sure if there should be restriction at the valve when it comes to trying to avoid a stuck mash. I've done...

Not in a beer but they stain clothes red so I'd predict amber to dark red.

Yeast quality has improved to the point that secondary is really only needed for extended aging (months) or when transferring onto fruit. There are different opinions on dry hop timing but I personally dry hop 5 days before bottling.

Being your 4th batch I assume you know to remove the steeping grains before bringing to a boil. Only change I'd make to those instructions is to skip secondary and dry hop in primary.

I've got a pack of that but haven't used it yet. The description on MoreBeer does say "slightly tart finish".

Before I started controlling fermentation temp many of my batches smelled like cider, some even tasted cidery on bottling day but after 3 weeks at room in the bottles to carbonate it usually went away.

That is still good advice. Only secondary if you have a specific reason such as transferring onto fruit, extensive aging, etc.

The starter volume for step 2 should be what you add. You can also decant some of the liquid from the first step before adding the second step wort if you want.

The way I understand it is that calcium chloride is pretty effective at absorbing moisture from the air causing it to lose purity and by making it into a solution with distilled water it becomes more stable.

Thanks Martin. If some fall out of solution again I'll decant off of it.

Thanks Denny. I'll dilute it.

A couple of days ago I made a calcium chloride solution using distilled water. I had it sitting on the counter in a canning jar with the lid tighened. This morning I looked at it and it appeared some had come out of solution. I assumed I didn't stir well enough so I poured it in a flask and put...

I've never used 1010 but I've used S-05 in American style wheats and liked the results. It's clearer than what you'd get from a wheat yeast if that matters to you.

I just left the peels in big chunks and added them directly to the boil kettle. It was ok. In my opinion if you want grapefruit Cascade hops will give more flavor. The peels gave some bitterness and subtle flavor.

I've done it a few times. I just added it near the end of the boil or at flameout.

BIAB is just a method for doing all grain so you should be good in terms of recipe. I don't BIAB so someone else will have to answer if the 10 gallon pot is large enough. My thought is that worst case scenario would be that you'd have to mash with less than full volume and then sparge.