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Fewer ports = less stuff to clean.

Still looking? I have an extra 10gal corny keg that's set up for pressure fermentation. It fits into my counter height fridge with a spunding valve attached.

I guess that regardless of whether it's in the garage or the house, fire is a bad thing. There are heaters with auto-shutoff designed for car batteries. The oil pan heaters can get much hotter but still have a thermal shutoff far below the melting/burning point of neoprene.

You should be able to wire the internal pump directly to the grainfather conical - both are 12V systems. There is a video here:

I'm looking for a heating solution for my conical fermenter and would like to be able to heat up into the 90s for saison and kveik yeast. Most of the carboy heaters will not really fit under a neoprene jacket - they're the wrong shape. For a 7 gal conical, it seems like the Spike 85W cone heater...

I bought this on cyber monday and it arrived today. Letting it stand for a day before powering on, but initial impressions are that it's a good looking unit with the exception of the internal wiring, which looks exceedingly thin for something that draws 600W. The insulation around the reservoir...

20W is probably not enough. It dips down into the low 40s overnight here and I'd like to be able to ferment at 70-90 for Belgian and kveik strains. There are various silicone mat heaters that might fit the bill such as a 2x5 inch engine heater that puts out 50W or a 4x5 that puts out 100W.

Thanks for the info. I am eagerly awaiting the delivery of my Icemaster. I'm sure that morebeer got absolutely slammed with orders over the weekend. What 120V heating mat are you using? I'm debating between being cheap and ordering an oil pan or seedling heater vs blowing the $$$ on the Spike...

@jeffalanmcclain I looked at your blog post - that's helpful. Are you saying that you CAN use the relay built in to the controller to switch the 120V hot wire but that there is no neutral run to the controller? Or did you use an external solid state relay to switch the outlet?

Sanitation concerns aside, what do you gain from the pouring back and forth business? If you have 1 gallon or wort, why not just pour it into the fermenter through a sanitized sieve set in a funnel? I'm guessing that you are losing hop flavor due to oxidation and due to not cooling your wort...

For instance - this type of thing could work. It has a much higher watt density than brewing specific heaters, but in contact with a large stainless tank, it might not be too bad. I'd likely try to position it clost to the thermowell to minimize overshoot due to mixing time. ABN Electric...

Thanks. Yes, I have something like a fermwrap that for carboys. I'll likely try it out with the new conical and see if it will fit. Otherwise I'm going to have to try a seedling or reptile type heater.

Up for sale is a 10g ball lock corny keg. I used it for several batches and it works great. Like most of the 10gal kegs out there, this one requires an oversize o-ring (included) and takes about 10 lbs of pressure to seal. It is a perfect size to ferment a 6 gal batch with no chance of blowoff...

What are you using for a heater? I'm looking for an option for a conical fermenter that's less expensive than the Spike offering.

Thanks @BoilerInSoCal! That's very helpful information. I'd likely wire in a socket or extension cord. Where I live, we often need heating and cooling over the course of a given day in the shoulder seasons.

I'm thinking of buying one of these units. Has anyone successfully wired in a heating element? I was looking at the instructions on Morebeer's site and they reference the heating delay and hysteresis temperature for the controllers but there's no information about what's involved in wiring a heater.

Thanks Rob! This basically reaffirms the conclusion that I'd come to after a lot of thinking on the ideal fermentation vessel.

I want to be able to ferment under pressure and spund. To my knowledge, none of the brew buckets can do this. The only stainless fermenters that I've seriously considered are the SS unitank and the spike flex+ but by the time you add all of the 'options', they both end up costing a grand. A 10...

maybe? It still won't fit in my fermentation fridge. If I had a bigger fridge, I'd probably just buy a fermzilla.

Thanks. I'm interested in using it as a fermenter, and the torpedo kegs are very short and wide relative to the older 10gal corny kegs - I'm concerned that it will be too difficult to get all of the beer out and that it won't fit into my fermentation chamber without modification.