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I have been using brewtarget for a while and tried doing an extract brew with it recently but couldnt seem to get it to do what I wanted. I would keep trying if I were you. I too want to make it work! Did you try updating your equipment details? (Clicking on that pot button 4th from the left)

I have a gift card to a "diy beer" website that only sells extracts and kits. Normally I all-grain brew so this will be my first extract. Can anyone tell me if the "Dry Malt Extract" referred to in the recipe is the same as any of these: Cooper's Amber Malt Extract Cooper's Dark Malt Extract...

Please draw my name.

So I bought a freezer and made it into a fermentation chamber. My first brew to enter the chamber had a fermentation overflow. I changed the airlock out for a blow off tube and wipe out of the beer/wort that flowed out. A week later I added another brew to the chamber. Now another week later I...

I am about to pick up some additional ball lock corny kegs off craigslist and the guy wants to sell me his 5# Co2 tank as well, but no regulators. I already have a 5# Co2 tank for my 3 keg freezer/kegerator setup. Has anyone ever thought man I wish I had a backup tank? If so is $40 reasonable...

In please!!!!!

The scuba shop said they would fill it, but if its not O2 I am guessing there is no point. Would an air compressor accomplish the same thing (with a filter of some kind)? I need one of those anyway, the dual purpose makes it easier to justify. I am also considering an aquarium air pump. Would...

Does anyone have experience with these home use tanks? http://images.craigslist.org/01515_24rreH2e0x5_600x450.jpg It appears to be a deal at $40 + $20-$60 to certify it + cost to fill at the Scuba shop. Is that a reasonable price? Will it work to oxygenate my wort?

Yup stirring like a madman...

Yes I use Brewtarget to get my calculated efficiencies. I measure pre-boil and then OG. I use a automatically temperature adjusting refractometer. Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

My first runnings are fairly close in gravity to the target. The second runnings (post sparge) are at a fraction of that gravity giving me a pre-boil gravity that is much to low. Not much dead space beneath my false bottom, and the headspace varies by brew.

I do think I am hitting my mash temps as I do stir and measure from both the top and bottom of the mash tun. I use brewtarget to input my recipe and tell me my target pre-boil gravity and post boil gravity. I have calibrated my thermometers they all read 212 at boiling. I am testing the...

So I would probably need to remove the freezer box and build a shelf over the compressor hump. Thanks I will take that into consideration when I make my pre-purchase inspection.

My plan has been to hook up a thermostat like this to a freezer. In Seattle I am looking at $100 for a used chest freezer + the hassle of moving/transporting. I just saw this counter height mini fridge for $30. Is there that much down side to using this instead of a freezer? I am assuming...

No OG falls right in line with an overall efficiency of 55%. I assumed this was a temp issue originally and have tried 3 different types of thermometer and tested them all thoroughly. They all give similar numbers give or take a degree.

I use an online calculator to determine the temp required to raise the mash temp to my target temp. From there I have been logging my temps and fine tuning the heat required to achieve my target temp.

Yea I was taught to drain slowly. When I recirculate I open the valve just enough to get a steady trickle. Same with draining into my boil kettle.

I use a temp adjusted refractometer. I am fairly certain my volumes are accurate as I measured and marked all my kettles and sight glasses.

After draining my first runnings I add 190 degree sparge water to raise the temp of the grain above 170. I then recirculate (in place of a vourlaf) and drain.

Its all-grain, my recipe calls for a specific gravity measured before the boil, assuming a 70% mash efficiency. I get closer to 55%.