Search results

I print the Brew Steps from BeerSmith and take all my notes on that

We do less vigorous boils on our NEIPA at work...reduce colandria to 75%. It is primarily to reduce break material and keep more haze material going into the whirlpool. We don't use kettle hops so IBU's in the kettle are a non-issue.

You MIGHT have a Brett infection but oxidation is more likely. Beer doubles the rate at which it ages for every 10 degrees F it is stored. Store your bottles as cold as possible after carbonating. Was your orange zest fresh or packaged (dried)?

The casters are standard 3/8" x 1.5", you can find them anywhere if you want to add them later.

Arbor Fab rocks, quality stuff.

We cold crash every beer we make, mostly for purposes of carbonating it in the vessel. I would bet every commercial version of wheat beers you have tried has been cold crashed.

I like this hop schedule much better, but then I prefer a nice dry, yeast forward Saison, not the hoppy styles. I think the original schedule called for far too much bitterness.

I would crash it. Wit's are traditionally brewed with unmalted wheat. After bottle conditioning you are going to crash it anyway through normal refrigeration so you might as well reduce a bit of the bottle sediment now. Wits get their haze from proteins and bit from the low to moderate...

When we use fruit in our sours at work we ferment the fruit puree then rack the beer into it. So the puree is combined with yeast in a tank by itself, we allow that to ferment for about a week, then rack the beer into that tank.

Here's the stuff, I also use pip insulation with it as it does exhibit some condensation. https://www.siliconehose.com/silicone-heater-hose-0-380-id-0-690-od-0-160-wall/

If you are from Cologne or Dusseldorf then the answer is no! Otherwise, it shouldn't be a problem :)

You can test for diacetyl with a forced test. Take 2 samples of your beer. Do a sensory test on one to see if you detect any diacetyl. If you do, then the beer is too young. Cover the second sample with foil and heat it to 140-160F in a water bath. Remove the cover and smell/taste for diacetyl...

At home, I use a brite because it is more compact and fits in my chest freezer, eliminating the need to add glycol cooling to the brite and eliminating the need to cool serving lines from the unitank. At our brewery we use only unitanks and serve from kegs in a central cool box

You can use a refractomer or hydrometer....should be in the 1.030's

In our brewery we sanitize with heat. I do the same at home with my fermenter and brite tank. I use my RIMs to circulate 170F water through the spray ball for 30 minutes. For small parts I use StarSan. Cleaning is done with a Oxy/TSP mix or a 2% Caustic/TSP mix. @Catoshy -- Having chlorine in...

A CO2 blank is easy and just provides added protection from the aerobic baddies. It's good insurance from butyric and isovaleric producers. Another option would be to use a RIMs or HERMs setup for heat control.

I didn't find it very precise. I use a simple ball valve on the gas post and gently vent while transferring. I use a 1/4" flare to 1/4" push connect adapter attached to my keg fitting. I then use a short piece of 1/4" poly tubing with a push connect valve attached. Start the transfer with the 2...

Ah, pressurizing was not my problem, it's relieving the pressure that I couldn't do. The 10 gallon Brite Tanks does not have any capability to vent the head space other than the PRV. So if pressure builds beyond your desired pressure, there is no way to vent the tank other than just pouring...

You can use the APC QD's which are cheaper: https://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-976-apc-series-valved-couplings.aspx