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Ha, of course you can Alpha! I'd be honored!

I was a bit worried about the solder pad height issue as well, but I laid the pin header on it's side and pressed it against the contacts (like below); the pins will flex enough to take up any variation in the pad height. (also, the pads were pretty consistent in height, which helps).

PS, I successfully flashed this without doing any soldering. I just threw 5 wires into a pin header and pressed it against the contacts on the bottom of the STC.

I just flashed this onto my STC-1000 without any issue and am looking forward to putting it to use! FYI, I have no background in programming and had never used an Arduino prior to this, so the instructions have passed the idiot-test :) Many thanks to Alpha, Disney and the rest of the developers...

Ah, so you don't have to be a paying member to enter through the mail? I didn't realize that, makes sense now, thanks! I presume this is due to some BS law that says you can't require people to be paid members in order to join?

So I'm confused about the mail-in entry option for the HBT giveaways that have been hosted here of late. Why does this option exist? And why do people prefer to use it rather than simply posting to the thread as an entry? Presumably one would need a mail-in option if they did not have access to...

Full disclosure: I've never actually needed to try this myself but have heard of others doing it in an "I can't find the leak" situation and it works. Apparently it is frowned upon by vendors like Micromatic because some water gets in your gauges. The gauges will drain, but you'll be getting...

Fill your bathtub with water and submerge the whole regulator/tank assembly. Bubbles should rise from wherever the leak is and you can diagnose from there.

Ok OP, if you'd like to follow the thicker mash schedule you can do the following: 9.2qt @ 135, hold for 20 mins (step temp: 122, ratio: 0.8) add 6qt @ 210, hold for 60 mins (step temp: 152, ratio: 1.3)

yeah, I do recall seeing that mentioned somewhere before. I just think thick mashes are a PITA so I don't bother going below 1.00. But if you'd like to use a thicker mash you can use this calculator to get your addition temps/volumes: http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash/

Correct, don't mill the rice hulls. According to beersmith, you'll want to add 13.5qt of water at 131 for your first step (122) and then 8.3qt at 210 for your second step. This will consume a total mash volume of ~6.5gal so you'll have plenty of room in your MLT for adjustment additions if...

Yes, this is the infusion method of step mashing, which works fine for conducting a protein rest. I would encourage you to consider a thinner mash than just using half the mash water; since you have a larger cooler I'd shoot for 1-1.25qt/lb on your first infusion, then calculate the needed...

A protein rest is just another mash step done prior to the primary beta/alpha rest. A standard protein rest would be to mash in at ~120 and hold it for 20 mins, then step up to your next step (152 in your case) by infusion, decoction, direct heat or whatever other method you're using to change...

Yes... that's a 5gal recipe. Sounds like you might want to get a few kit brews under your belt, though, before you venture out on your own. They'll come with instructions, etc to help you get familiar with the brewing process. Not trying be condescending at all (I started with kits myself), just...

From BYO clone recipe book: 1 lb, 13 oz. 2-Row Pale 3 oz. Crystal 60 1.75 lbs. Light Dried Malt Extract 3 AAU Warrior (30) 2.5 AAU Tettnang (30) .25 oz. Cascade (0) Wyeast 1335 or White Labs WLP002 3.3 lbs. Oregon Fruit Products Apricot Puree or 3 oz. apricot flavoring (add in secondary) If...

You could just use a barbed air chuck like this. And yeah, you'd want a hose clamp on there, too.

Long board: 18-1/2 x 11-3/4 Short board: 11-1/4 x 11-3/4 Bottom panel: 17-3/8 x 11-5/8 Top panel: 17-3/4 x 11-5/8 Groove inset: 1/2 (dado starts at 1/2" from edge of board) Internal separators (long): 16-15/16 x 4-1/2 Internal separators (short): 11-3/16 x 4-1/2

Assuming the AA was 6.5-7.5% (which is normal for Cluster), you've got a 55-65 IBU brew there. That's in the range of an American IPA, so pretty bitter. This wouldn't be a very drinkable beer; the light malt character would be totally overpowered by the strong hop bitterness. The total lack of...

No, you didn't ruin it. RDWHAHB :mug:

It will just be twice as bitter. A 60 minute addition won't carry over much flavor/aroma; you'll get mostly bitterness out of that addition and it'll be twice what you planned. What was the AA% on the hops you used?