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Yea it seems like this is one of the more "wing it" areas so I was just wondering, lol.

I just sort of guess that there is probably oxygen in the keg when you keg it because you fill it while it is open, then I suppose that while you have it at 30 PSI to carb you can also flush the oxygen by opening the relief valve. Is this true or am I just wasting CO2 is there a way if not...

I will probably eventually get one of these but for now I am running the odds. I am actually contemplating how the ancient folks did it. I am guessing its sticking your finger in the top of the water. No burn = 130-, a little burny = 140, burny = 150, ow = 160, OUCH! = 170, F$#% = 180 + . I...

Good point Pickledbill with the black box approach. Sometimes initially to things it is like you are a monkey and the bag,pH etc is a complex machine we will call a handgun. If you squeeze on it maybe nothing could happen, maybe you could get a fun bang out of it or maybe, unlikely, but maybe...

I squeeze never notice tannins, I can only imagine it affecting the taste if you crushed up the husks so much that they filtered out of the grain bag and you saw the gigantic mess of them and just let them sit during your hour boil.

I was going to go all irate and just scrap it then I remembered the words of Papazian, RDWHAH. And I just let it do its thing.

Well, the post mash wort came out to 1.05. OG became 1.062. I must have done something right =D. :ban: :mug: Lets hope it ferments good.

I thought about taking a picture but eff that. I have 4 thermometers two digital , two analog. They all disagree. The two digitals are the closest to each other within about 5 degrees. W T F. First all grain brew and I am confused on which to trust.

On some I cannot tell by the description or pictures if they come with the temp sensor/line by default or not do they always come with that?

Thanks great info that is not clear from the specs that people post. If you guys are satisfied with that one I will probably go with it.

So I am going to make a keezer/lager fermentor from a freezer and I was analyzing the good and bad of these controllers. The one thing that I see is lets say I got on vacation for a week and i have my lagers in the freezer. Power goes out for an hour, not a giant deal unless the digital one...

Well one thing about it is that dry yeast is talked up to be a non-starter ( ... aka you dont have to make a starter) so I think there are more chances for it to get just chunked in and not even hydrated and still be expected to perform generally that is the case. If you use a vial generally...

I do want a stainless one seems like a place someone would capitalize.

I have 5 posts here have done about 5 batches of beer and have already spent way over a grand. Welcome to brewing a money pit that spits out beer. I have about 5 fermentors and 7 corny kegs. That is the majority of the cost and the CO2 crap.

Archimedes screw its time to start priming my siphoning old school.

I am sending my wort through my copper coil which is inserted in an ice bath. In my test it was way more efficient and uses less water so I thought I would go for it, I should have cooled first but I figured wtf lets see. Anyway I am drinking that beer even if its plasticy tasting... :tank:

I did a 165 degree test last night and all was fine. Apparently I found the "sorta meltish" point. Next time immersion chiller then igloo chiller after or buy a pump and I am cheap. Other options? haha

Lesson

Thanks for the reply Revvy. Yea I think I am going to buy growlers and more airlocks, I am doing a plastic wrap rubber band method on that one and it seems pretty archaic I bet it beats the hell out of medieval times though!

I am wondering if there is a top side limit on how long a starter can go?