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I've primed many batches at 8 oz cane sugar to 5-5.5 gallons of hefe. It's a lot of carbonation but has not caused any problems for me. Just 6 oz would be good too. (IMO bottle bombs are more about bottling before FG is reached.)

The local paintball shop has several 50 pound tanks form the same welding supply shop I have fill my bigger tanks. I've used enough of it to know it's good.

The ones working there are idiots.

I had my paint ball tanks (for beer) filled at Dick's and the price was 10 times that of the paintball place. 20 bucks for 24 ounces. I never will go back to that place. I get my bigger tanks filled at a welding supply shop that has a tank the size of a house. It's about a buck a pound.

PPG for MO could be 38-39, so could the Munich. You need the malt analysis, but 82-83% is normal.

It wont be the same but it will still be really good. Ive used the same grain bill with citrusy hops and it made excellent west coast amber style beers.

I'd taste it then dump it.

5% or so crystal is pretty good in an IPA, 10% just doesn't come out dry enough. I like the added flavor of the 60L but if you want a lighter color beer 15L is fine too. I think 60L will go well with the Amarillo and Cascade hops. Definitely use more Amarillo--that's one of my favorites (you...

I'd only use a half pound of crystal 60L (no 15l) and double up on the Amarillo.

CAP, or pre-prohibition cream ale.

It just has to be cold to get the chill haze. Getting it cold first will drop more yeast too.

Kaiser suggests using 80 ppm epsom and 50 ppm calcium chloride along with 3% acid malt for a kolsch. That's to complicated for me. I'd just use my tap water and add a cap of phosphoric acid to the sparge. But then my water will make a beer like this just fine.

The highest after fermentation was complete. The CO2 is less soluble at higher temps so it will gas off up to that point. Lowering the temp after fermentation will not add any more CO2.

If it's done don't worry if it has dropped or not. Go ahead and rack it. You will still have a lot of yeast in suspension. Once you get it cold some gelatin is a good idea. It only takes a few days.

Use the highest temperature that the beer has rested at.

Acid malt is more authentic.

That's the Special Dark, The Traditional dark is mostly munich with c-60 and black malt for color. http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Assets/PDFs/Briess_PISB_CBWTradDarkLME.pdf

You wont get much from the oats but starch haze, you need a mash to use it. I think with the dark extract dropping the black malt to .25 lb would be better. There is some in the extract already.

The slow ramp is outdated. It used to be they would use the last bit of fermntation for carbonation. They had to do it at just the right gravity and do it slow or the yeast would quit. The colder temps also helped with CO2 absorption. The diacetyl rest is a newer way and the slow ramp is no...

I think what they mean as 'hard' is they still do it the old way with a full on cereal mash. Miller and Coors don't any more.