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Last week I brewed 15 gallons of Weizenbock. I used the same wort for a WLP-300 starter. I took 3L into a 4L jar shook it a bunch over an hour or so. It took off. After a few hours I pitched it evenly into three fermenters. Today I brewed a Hefeweizen and top cropped the yeast. It's going from...

I've done a lot of split batches with San Diego and other Chico strains. San Diego is the only one I still use. It finishes my 5-5.5% ABV brews in a week with a tight cake and clear beer. It repitches fine, but unlike US-05 the first gen is just as good as the second.

I've heard of some people putting beano in the mash (or was it the fermenter?) I have no desire to clone bud light.

My last brew was Nectraron Pale Ale. Kegged it yesterday.

It's amazing watching it leave nothing but yeast in there.

Weldless fittings have worked fine for me. Williams has a $10 22 mm hole punch. It makes a near perfect hole for weldless 1/2 inch pipe fittings. They also sell a 32 mm for water heater elements. I used their cheap step bit to pre-drill for the punches. The $6 step bit alone is probably good...

These work great if you have a lot of dry hops still floating around.

IMO to do it right you need: A few used kegs 5lb C02 w/regulator, and a place to fill it. A party tap Dedicated fridge or freezer w/temp controller. It used to be cheap. I remember getting clean pressurized used kegs for like $25.

I've always had a sold cake with 001 and San Diago by one week. US-05 doesn't drop as well. I fermented them in the mid sixties.

I've used it in a few split batches. I prefer it over US-05 but Apex San Diego is still my favorite Chico strain.

Delta has been good for me. No issues. Shipping is too high for me anymore. They used to ship sacks for free.

After years of Barley Crusher problems, I bought a 2DG. I use a cordless drill in low gear at about half throttle (Kobalt XTR.)

You can bleach bomb buckets. I've mostly only used buckets. Some are stained by dark beers and iodophor. I haven't had many infections but the few I had I don't blame on the bucket. I much prefer the allrounder though.

I know very little about AIOs. Both length and gauge are a functions of voltage drop. 12 awg is under 1.6 ohms per 1000 ft. 14 awg is only good for under 15 amps and has 2.5 ohms per 1000 ft. Another factor is resistance in the connections. Cheap cords have cheap connectors. They can get hot...

Twist locks are nice but the regular NEMA 6-20 is fine. NEMA 6-15 is compatible with it too. Good for 4000 watts.

I use Brewers Friend calculator. With it if you preheat it will over shoot. It's been accurate for me. I used to use a different calculator and did have to pre-heat. With it I believe the tun temp and grain temp should be the same.

My coleman xtreme 70qt might loose one degree if it's full. That's with 30 lbs of grain and 13 gallons strike. It's really to big for a five gallon batch (but I use it anyway.) If I get my sparge boiling I can infuse to raise the temp of the smaller mashes.

I'm drinking a dry stout bittered with cluster and finished with a touch a willamette. WLP001 dry. 18 days from brew and it's delicious. I have two more kags of it with US05 and Cali. I hope they are as good. I used El Dorado on my last two dry stouts. I try to always have a stout on tap.

I'd say warrior has a little more ferm bitterness than magnum. I tend to use magnum in lagers and warrior in ales. It is nothing like chinook.

I don't BIAB. Sure, with my 15 gallon kettle and a 12.5 gallon boil with propane I had to watch out for boil overs. But now using a 20 gallon kettle and a 18 gallon boil it's much less of a worry (very close to the brim.) With only 5500 watts it's hard to. Maybe if I never turned it down to a...