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I did a cream ale from Brewmasters Warehouse, I think it was called "mow the lawn" or something. it was very good, and my friend who only drinks Coors Light enjoyed it. Midwest Supplies has a kit called "this buds for you" which is an American lite beer. I haven't done the extract version...

that should work. if it comes out too hot, add a bit of cold water and stir. if its not hot enough, add some boiling water.

167 is too hot to mash at... if you add the grain to 167 water, you should lose somewhere around 10 degrees, so you'd be at 157, which would work, but will give you a lot of unfermentables. I usually go for 152 as the mash temp, it's a good middle of the road temp, will get the beer reasonably...

the iodine sanitizer is sold as Iodophor. the company that makes Star San makes one called I/O Star, which is what I use. Iodophor is no rinse, and no foaming.

check out Mama Mia Pizza Beer. you can order from thier website. my sister got me a 6 pack for Christmas. It isn't bad. I can see not everyone liking it, but I found it pretty tasty.

kosher dill pickles, added at bottling to several bottles of an American Light Lager. smells very weird, but tastes good.

I've always found Midwest Supplies to have great recipe kits.

I think Williams Brewing uses similar pouches to what More beer uses for their lme. That said, I've never purchased lme from either place. When I was doing extract, I usually got it from Midwest, and it was lme. lme was a pain to get all of it out of the container, so I preferred dme.

youi can give it another week, without worrying about the yeast dying off. although if the gravity isn't dropping, it should be ready to transfer, even if some bubbles are happening. the bubbles are probably just co2 that was produced earlier that was stuck in the wort escaping as the yeast...

I made something similar, used Wyeast 2007 yeast, but the grain bill was close to yours. came out very nice, easy drinking beer that would be great for after working all day.

priming sugar lets you use a specific amount to get a certain carbonation level. but you have to measure and boil it, and rack your beer on to it. tabs are easy and you just drop em in the bottle. but you can't get specific carb levels. so it's up to you, and what is more important to you.

I think about a year, but not 100% on it.

so I'm not the only person to have thought of broth beer?

thats more like a 10 gallon batch amount of aromatic malt. you could try it, but I don't think it will be very good. of course, I could be wrong and it could somehow work.

for ales, you could do that. the yeast make some esters and other flavor compounds when they have to reproduce a lot, and you don't want that in a lager. best thing to do is make a 4 liter starter and pitch it in a low gravity beer. then ferment the high gravity beer right on top of the yeast...

it depends on what you're brewing, but I'd guess the Northern brewer is for bittering, the hallertau for flavor/aroma. the kit instructions should say, unless they are very poorly written instructions.

and here I was thinking fermenting milk made yogurt. what do I know?....

would definitely have been better to make a starter, or pitch 2 packs. it won't help any now, the flavor profile would be set after the first couple days of fermentation. That said, 2112 is probably the most forgiving lager strain, so it will hopefully still be drinkable. when I've used that...

the pale ale and ipa can definitely be done in 6 weeks, especially since you're kegging. you can carb in a keg in a day or so, if you need to. I always got a lot of foam when I tried that though, and had better luck doing it lower pressure for longer time, but in a pinch it would work. the...

Steam beers were traditionally made using a cool ship, not an open fermenter. well, they may also have used an open ferment, but they did use coolships. I believe Anchor still uses them. Edit: just read the link posted earlier. It says Anchor does use coolships, they just don't actually cool...