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Patience, Cold, Gelatin, Filter. Pick two of these and you will have very clear beer.

At this point the fermentation is done and you mostly want it to clear up so you don't have too much yeast in the bottle / keg. The london ale is less flocculent than other english strains. Give it another week and you should be good. At this point, lower temperature is actually a good thing as...

I think your fermentation temp is the main issue here. All strains will be much more vigorous at warm temperature. A 10 degrees difference is huge.. The yeast metabolism is slowed down and everything takes more time. This is one of the first things I noticed when I started controlling my...

You have too much stuff in there and not enough liquid.. The yeast is stuck with all the other crud and can't separate.. You need enough liquid to resuspend all the yeast you are going to keep and let the trub settle. You probably have way to much yeast in there anyway.. Do another wash cycle...

Culturing yeast from bottles is a hit or miss. In this case, it seems like a miss. Toss it and start with a fresher 6 packs. After some time, mostly anything will start fermenting unless it is 100% sterile, which is rarely the case. The amount of viable yeast in a bottle can be quite low...

What kind of flask do you use for your stir-plate? 1000 ml and 2000 ml Erlenmeyer flasks seems to be the norm. What size should I get? I usually do 700-800ml starters for a 6 gallon batch. A 1000ml would leave little head space for this size of starter, but I figure since it is on a...

Yes, many breweries who are serious about bottle conditioning do filter (or centrifuge) and add a precise amount of fresh yeast and sugar.. That's what sierra nevada does, and many others.

Let me know how the T-58 works out.. I've read in a few places it was a good bottling yeast.. DME would be a big no no I would say for bottle conditioning, especially high gravity.. You want to make life as easy as possible for the yeast, so feeding them simple sugars is the way to go.. Even...

Thanks for the tip on WLP099.. There are many reasons for bottle bombs: Make sure your beer is fully attenuated before bottling. Use a priming sugar calculator. Make sure you have all the details right: - Volume of beer to bottle - Temperature of the beer (will affect residual co2 content...

My belgian quad will soon be ready for bottling and I am planning this step carefully since I believe it is the trickiest.. Getting a high level of carbonation on a 11% ABV beer is not easy.. Simply tossing in some dextrose on top of that tired yeast is a hit or miss.. you might be lucky and...

Thanks for the input. I will let it go, but will let the temp rise up to 72F, and even warmer if it seems to be floc'ing out too early. Regarding incremental feeding, it did not seem appropriate for this beer as it is all pils malt + some munich + 15% caramelized sugar added at the end of the...

Yesterday, I pitched about 2 cups of WLP-500 slurry from a previous batch into a Quadrupel of 1.107 OG. It is currently fermenting at high krausen at 65F. I am hoping for 80% attenuation, so a 1.022 FG or so. This calculates to about 11.5% ABV The problem: White labs list alcohol tolerance...

Been going through my brewlogs and I am looking for a new challenge! Challenge me with a style I have not yet brewed! One gotcha: I can't ferment lower than 60F. So true lagers are out of reach. :( What I brewed so far: Wheat: Wit bier American wheat + Fruit american wheat Hefe...

That's great. Where did you find the unmalted, unflaked, i.e. raw wheat? Did you do anything special with the wheat? Cooked it? or just added to the mash?

The traditional way to go is using raw wheat in a cereal cooker, than adding it to the mash. Pierre Rajotte goes into great details about it in the book Belgian Ales (classic beer styles serie) If you use flaked wheat, the wheat is pre-cooked for you and you do not need to cook it yourself and...

Marris Otter is a cultivar, Pale Ale malt refers to the malting process, independent of the specific barley used. Most, if not all, Marris Otter malt is Pale Ale malt, since there is such high demand for it. There is a very nice article on BYO's website about this subject: Brew Your Own: The...

Well, I think that when they are all brown, its too late... I have a patch that is brown, but I think this is because a stem was broken while training it. So, I will wait until they feel drier.. thanks

By the way these are Mount Hood, third year.. this will be my second harvest, as there was no production in the 1st year. I also have a new Centennial plant that is in first year and produced a few dozen cones (not pictured)

Sorry, I know there are gazillions of thread like this but still, I am not sure of when I should harvest.. The cones smell nice when I touch them, but I'm not sure if they are "papery" yet.. they still seem pretty soft and moist.. Here is what they look like: Index of /cedric/houblons_2009...

Here's a pic of my little experiment Looks like its carbing and nothing exploding yet..