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Cool. One last question. Can you set alarms/notifications for when a desired SG is hit?

Instead of a graph will it crate a table or a list of the SG points as they change?

The "inflection"....basically the yeast's last ditch effort to finish out? I'd assume your basing this observation in part on your history with the yeast....knowing where it will end up? This would be to know were gravity is in relation to temp and then you can manually increase temp to help...

I’d like to hear about it. Would be interested about using it to time spunding instead of taking a sample.

What you are asking is: What is the finished o2 level of a beer brewed non-LODO on the hot side but treated LODO on the cold side? Of course this opens up questions of how various cold side processes can reduce or increase o2? From what I have read, if you follow the cold side process...

I understand. Probably bad advice to give but that’s how I do it. What types of bacteria are we talking about? I’m assuming you mean from the grain. Some food for thought in this thread: https://discussions.probrewer.com/showthread.php?12782-time-temp-Killing-beer-bugs

Never really thought about that. You got a point there. But yeah, I’ve been pulling it off the mash. *Edit...I guess that’s the wrong answer. I have thought about it, briefly.....with everything like the stir bar and flask sanitized beforehand, I’ve always been willing to accept the wort...

At the very least make a brew day quick starter. Before doing anything on brew day...take the yeast to sit out a room temp. Draw 800ml of wort off during the mash....cool it to room temp....and then pitch the yeast into it. Then put it on a stir plate; I'll just run the stir plate every now and...

Use some sort of acid to get the ph your shooting for; acid malt, lactic acid, phosphoric acid...... I’d suggest using a water calculator such as Brewersfriend or Bru N Water. But yes you’ll be fine if you treat your water properly and get your ph in line.

Are you concerned about ph or flavor impact....or both?

https://www.facebook.com/125749597475888/posts/2390849207632571?sfns=mo

It should be fine with the yeast still active. Next time bag the hops...and suspend from the lid.

What’s the OG of the beer? My bet it’s close to FG. I brew a lot of 1.045 to 1.50 beers and they are at FG on day two with 1318. If you have a spunding valve...then any excess pressure will bleed off.

I’ve been doing the mash out step not really for anything except to measure and adjust ph preboil.... Gives me time...I’ll just hold it in the 170’s until I’m confident in my readings and adjustment....then move on. *Edit...I do full volume mashing though.

I think this is a good plan. I agree with schematix (that gave me a laugh...sorry) but if you want to use it...enter it as a crystal malt into the calculator. And you would put it in the mash just like you do crystal malt....they just do not NEED to be mashed because they have no enzymes to...

You didn’t fill in the treatment for the sparge water. Carapils doesn’t need to be mashed. It’s not a base malt. I’ll take a more in depth look later.

You need to click the salts added to mash only button. Unless you are treating your sparge water. By clicking this...it will get your needed acid down to about .75 tsp to hit desired mash ph of 5.4. I like the ability to share the water profile. *Edit...also I think Carapils should be used...

I’m at work so I’ll check later when i get home. But are you sure the acid amount is displayed in tsp and not ml? If you click the check box to specify acid amount by target it automatically calculates it in ml....not tsp. And I think even if you change the drop down to tsp while this box is...

Please post your complete recipe....that is way too much acid. I'll run it though Brewer'sFriend to see what I get. No offense....just trying to help.

Your welcome. In the Consumer Confidence Report it is stated the chlorine is in the form of Chloramine. This can not be remove effectively with a carbon filter. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/campden-tablets-sulfites-and-brewing-water.361073/