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I was at a Brew competition recently and a Barley Wine entry blew me away. Speaking to the brewer later, it was a very standard Barley Wine type recipe, except he used both Wyeast 1028 and 1098 during fermentation. This has got me quite interested to try this myself. My next Imperial Stout...

Picked up my hops, and after talking to the owner and a pro brewer, I just went with 2:2:1 Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy for 29 IBU in the whirlpool and 1:1:1 for the two dry hop additions.

I’m taking tracer bullets idea, and going to the LHBS tomorrow to pick out the hops in person, based on some aroma testing.

For sure that’s a good idea. But here, loose hops are only 2 cents per gram more than bulk hops. I have probably the best LHBS in Australia only 40 minutes away and he gets fresh stuff in from around the world each week. So apart from a few bulk malts I buy, everything else I buy as I need and...

I was going to order the hops in the next day or two. I usually only order what I need and not extra. Your hop dust smell idea is good, but I’ll need to order extra in case I decide to change the ratios after the smell test.

Many of my beers I cool to 2C for a few days before bottling to clear them up. I call that cold crashing. My big beers, such as Imperial Stouts, Barley Wines and Belgians I transfer from primary to conditioning keg for 3 to 6 months at 10C before bottling. I call that cold conditioning. My...

I’m going to use these hops in my NEIPA. Whirlpool for all the IBU then two seperate dry hop additions. I’m not sure if a 1:1:1 ratio is the way to go with this combination. Should I make one of them the feature hop? What have you guys tried and liked? Cheers

I transfer my Imperial Stouts from fermenter into bourbon or whiskey barrel then to keg for cold conditioning then to bottle. I do all those steps very carefully without introducing oxygen. As the guys have already suggested, if you can’t transfer to the conditioning phase without introducing...

Thanks for the link. Lots of interesting info in there.

I just received my 20 litre European Oak barrel. Once I get it conditioned/sanitised with water/boiling water, I was thinking of putting a couple of litres of 100 proof bourbon in the barrel for a month prior to filling with an Imperial Stout. For those who have used barrel aging, have you...

I went through so many sight glasses I've lost track. Must have been 5 or more. All split just like yours. They split from using the PBW cleaner and Kegland is aware of it because they offered me the solution to use a different cleaner that might prevent the tubes splitting. I never tried it as...

Looks good. I do a lot of Imperial Stouts along similar lines and they’ve done well in comps. With 10% roast/chocolate it does take a year or more to really intergrate. But it’s a good result. I’ve switched from using flaked barley to flaked wheat. I use 4 packs of Mangrove Jack M42 yeast in my...

I use US05 for only one beer, and that’s a double IPA I make. I pitch at 19C and finish at 21C. I find for that beer it’s a very good yeast and gives me a nice clean finish.

I spent about $700 on my mill and mill motor setup. It’s a nice stainless mill with fluted rollers. I save by buying malt in bulk, but the cost wasn’t the main factor. It’s for two main reasons. I crush about 10 minutes before I dough in, so it’s all so fresh. Plus I control the crush gap so I...

If there’s one thing I don’t target when making my beer it’s the colour. However my Hefe comes in at around 9 EBC which looks very close to the Weihenstephaner to me. I’ve not tried the Carahell, and I doubt I ever would. I like the tried and tested wheat/pilsner/munich combination. The only...

I’ve brewed this 5 times now using various processes and recipe. My latest goes to competition next week and it’s so close now I don’t know what I would change in the future. 55% Weyermann Wheat 30% Weyermann Pilsner 10% Weyermann Munich II 5% Dextrose 12 IBU Hallertau Mittelfrueh Wyeast 3068...

My Weihenstephaner inspired Hefeweizen gets 2 weeks in primary, then bottled. It improves quickly in bottle and is at peak drinking after 3 weeks. So that’s 5 weeks from brew day to a really nice Hefe. You just have to give yours more time.

I make a lot of yeast driven beers, such as Hefeweizen’s and a lot of Belgians. I’ve tried, and I can’t make those beers with dry yeast to the same standard I can using liquid yeast. For the beers I do that aren’t so yeast centred, such as Barley Wines, RIS, IIPA and the like, using dry yeast...

High ABV beer is mostly what I make. I use liquid yeast where I need to, such as for my Belgians, but if I can, I use dry yeast for my RIS or Barley Wine. These are 13%-14% beers, so I’ll pitch 4 packets of yeast. They get 4 weeks minimum in primary. 10 days is too quick for a big beer. Then I...

That‘s a good point. Crushing too fine with the all in ones like the BrewZilla leads to lots of poor consequences, and this scorching may be another one. I crush at 1.1mm and have never seen a problem with my 65L BrewZilla.