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Does anyone have a link to good, cheap, and easy to hook up fan for a dorm fridge type kegerator? I need on both for that and for the dorm fridge fermentation chamber.

No, about 2 page responding to a troll, and 29 pages taking the piss out of purist brewing trends.

The real question I have is whether True Beer uses external artificial carbonation, or if only natural CO2 from yeast is allowed. As we all know, that's absolutely critical in determining the reality of the OP's recipes. (yes, I've already riffed on this theme. You gonna start something?)

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Yes, that was my experience as well. However, the taste did become a bit clearer as the green beer taste aged out.

Do you sparge though? Sparge water also needs to be acidified to pH < 6.0 to avoid the possibility of extracting tannins during the sparge. This is more of a concern for fly sparging, but could show up in multiple batch sparges with alkaline water.

A charcoal or Brita filter will not remove chloramine, unless you pass the water through it painfully slowly (like 1 gal/hr or something). But not all municipalities use chloramine, or chlorine. And there's a threshold for tasting it. Where chloramine is used, levels can vary.

I think lots of people are suggesting they see NEIPAs darken with oxidation, although haze dropping out would also make the beer look darker.

Using Bru'n water and the reported 2 teaspoon CaCl and 1 teaspoon CaSO4 (or the other way round) with the first recipe above in 8.75 gal of RO, I get a mash pH of 5.5, so I doubt that the mash is way off in pH. Lowering it a little wouldn't hurt though, about 4 ml of 88% lactic acid would do it.

It's almost never used. IME, NEIPAs are often quite dry, with FGs of 1.010 or so, and lactose would increase the FG substantially. They have body due to hop oils, and chloride vs sulfate content. Flaked oats add a smooth mouth feel. But they aren't sweet in the way lactose would make them.

It's fine, as long as the wort is being stirred around a bit by convection, and you are getting enough boil-off, which you are. I run at 2300W or so (~50% of 5500W) for 10% boil off in my Bayou Classic, and I really only get boiling from one end of the 5500W element.

Windsor is very fruity, but it was maybe more in the berry flavor direction to my taste buds when I used it in a northern brown. Can't remember what temperatures I used though. Kolsch yeast might work well, but that's liquid only, I think.

With these beers, it could just be hop oils in a slick, or something from the flaked grains, I think. But yeah, infection should be easily distinguishable from hop burn. And should also eventually give you a too low FG.

I think this applies more generally as well. Hitting a specific OG doesn't tell you the FG of the beer or the ABV, although there are some pretty strong correlations. It's still possible to have a mash that is way off in fermentability though. SG isn't really the quantity we'd like to measure...

Which one? The one in Arizona?

My understanding of the situation: ABV by itself affects taste, and good beers are balances between the taste of malt, hops, alcohol and yeast character. Increasing ABV can change that balance (add a shot or two of vodka to a pint to test this ;) ). Increased OG by adding more malt to the...

IME, hop pellet dust in suspension gives a burning, astringent taste until it drops out. Do a recipe without a dry hop and see if the taste is still there if you really want to be sure. This yeast is definitely done with an O.G. of 1.052 in under four days, including clean up, but that's...

No, gelatin will pull out hop haze and aroma as well as yeast still in suspension. That's ok in things like lager, but not here.

Not only do I still use hops, I still brew pale ales using only cascade.

This is in the keg and partially carbonated now (CO2 tank is running down though). I did a second dry hop in the keg with about 2oz of cascade pellets I had around, as the homegrown hops weren't giving enough. It's pretty tasty. Obviously it's a bit rough around the edges, as you'd expect...