$500 For sale on Long Island. I’ve had it for a couple years now but haven’t used it in about a year so it’s time to let it go. Comes with the 120V power supply, 16.9 ounce can chuck and table, and a box of cans with about 150 cans plus lids left.
Just needs to be adjusted as it’s been sitting...
FYI, you can boil 7 total gallons on 1650 watts. Dont let anyone tell you that you cant. i've been doing it for 2 years now with not a single issue. Yes it takes a while to get there, but it does. I brew 5 gallon batches, and for something heavily dryhopped i typically boil 7 gallons with a...
Open up the plug end. Its 4 wires (ground, Neutral, Hot 1, Hot 2), Replace the plug with a 120v plug and only use 1 of the hots. It will just apply 120v to the element instead of 240, and you'll get 1/4 the power
If you're only using 120v, just pick up a off the shelf kitchen range hood. I have a 250cfm Broan stainless hood that i mounted directly to a basement window with a custom cut piece of wood to fill the window space. Vents directly out through a vent with an exterior vent vap that seals shut...
1) No spunding since i dont have unitanks
2) Co2 lines are EVA Barrier as well
3) Seems a next step to try to combat this is to ONLY cold crash under positive pressure from a co2 tank
Out of curiosity, whats the process at a small to medium sized brewery. They have unitanks, but that doesnt...
I'm trying to track down my source of oxidation (or what i assume is oxidation). My NEIPAs come out incredible when out of the fermenter, and into the keg, and carbonated. The first couple of weeks they taste exactly as they should, and look exactly as they should. Within 3-4 weeks, they...
Something to consider however.....if you're comfortable with wiring, you should be able to convert a 15amp IPB16 to 20amp. You have to replace the input power cable, the fuse, and then the internal 14gauge wiring to 12gauge out to the element plug. IIRC, the wiring is fairly straight forward...
I've had issues with both S04 and US05 above 9% if i'm sprinkling it dry or rehydrated. However if you do a very small starter 24hours before hand, i've found that it makes the difference and bumps the tolerance a bit. It puts healthy ready to eat yeast in and it chews away immediately...
My 3vessel system uses a temp probe in the outlet of the herms coil to control Mash Temp, and then a probe in the side of the boil kettle to control the boil.
The HLT is usually about 1.5-2degrees higher than the target mash temp.
The inkbird only accomodates up to 15 total amps of power with 14gauge wiring inside. A 2250watt element will trip the fuse since it draws about 18amps and would recommend 12gauge. You need a controller built for 20amp loads.
-Hydrometer is calibrated. A couple of times now just to be sure hah
-No STA-positive yeast strains, or Brett yeasts. I deal exclusively in S04 or S05 for 90% of my non NEIPA recipes, and then any other yeasts are the typical NE yeasts depending on availability (London III, Imperial Juice...
These 3 examples were usually around 84-86% attenuation, where as everything brewed prior to this with similar methods/recipes, averaged 70-75% attenuation
Anyone else experience a random point where your fermentation starts to overattenuate?
Theres been no change to my brewing equipment, i've verified all of my temp probes are reading correctly with multiple different thermometers including a thermopen, same process short of + or - 10 minutes...
Had an inkbird itc308 controlling my keezer for about 2 years before it crapped out on me 2 weeks ago. Out of nowhere the temp probe was off by like 10-15 degrees and my keezer froze up
they’re cheap, and available on amazon prime, so for $30 I had it back up and running in 36 hours
Carb stone is for dissolving co2 into your beer to carbonate. You cant carbonate in a BME. Its only rated to a max of 2-3psi. You have to ferment in the BME, then transfer to a brite tank or keg to carbonate. Or buy a unitank, which holds a much higher pressure, allowing you to carbonate...