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That was my exact (hopeful) plan. I figured maybe just hang the kettle with the ferrule point toward the floor and heat it up until it drops. I really like the new pull through ferrules. And knowing how strong the joint is on my other pull through bulkheads, I definitely want to go that route...

I discovered that the 1.5" TC ferrule I soldered onto my HLT has a hairline crack somewhere in the solder that is causing an extremely slow leak. This was my first stainless solder job and I think what ultimately happened is I didn't apply enough flux between the wall of my kettle and the face...

Results are in from my second brew day on the new rig: I swapped my silicone sparge hose for a Locline adjustable hose assembly: http://a.co/7WsAFUg and it worked great. No more fighting the hose to stay in place. It really came in handy as I was fly sparging. Because it doesn't move, I was...

Yep. So you're saying hook up the keg gas post to the fermenter gas post to let the co2 pressure in the keg equalize with the fermenter headspace. Then crack the spigot and let it flow...

Question about this method: In order to do this, you would need to make sure the positive pressure in the keg isn't much more than 1-2 psi, otherwise you could push more pressure to the fermentor than it can handle, right? I really like this idea though.

I *really* like this setup. I have a ton of extra mason jars as well that I could easily modify. Can you snap a pic of the barbs you added? I'm trying to envision what that would look like when adding to an existing mason jar lid. Just to be clear, you're using the ball lock gas post for...

I like this is idea because it also sets me up for a pressure transfer right away without having to swap anything else on. I'm just a little nervous to do this without some sort of pressure relief valve if for any reason the pressure rises too high. I guess that's where something like this...

Ditto. I clogged my racking arm on the first batch I put in it. Only dry hopped 2oz and left the arm at 3 o’clock.

Been there. Done that. I had a pumpkin beer in my fermenter with a blow off tube stuck in about a quart of Star San. I cold crashed and woke up to an empty pitcher. The beer was fine. But I’m probably never brewing that recipe again for unrelated reasons.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15blg.htm Something like that? So you’re saying before cold crashing, swap this on, and set the regulator to 1psi or so, and then crash?

I suppose so. I guess I was just hoping for a more “refined” solution since I’ll have a nice TC flange. What do most people do when cold crashing?

About a month ago I picked up a 7 gallon Anvil Fermentor. I really love this thing -- except for the lid. Why they didn't just go ahead and put a 1.5" TC ferrule on it?! The good news is that installing one seems pretty straight forward. I've soldered plenty of bulkheads before, so I'm not...

I have a spare CIP ball with a camlock fitting. It barely fits through the opening in the fermenter lid. It's not a perfect seal, but still should work ok. I was thinking of filling a bucket of PBW and placing it on the ground. Drop in my pond pump with a 1/2" barb that runs the cleaner up...

Just finished my first batch with my Anvil Fermentor. Like anything else, I learned a few lessons: THE BARB NEEDS A HOSE CLAMP! I've been using 1/2" silicone for years now and didn't have any clear 1/2" hose. I was forced to use silicone so I couldn't really keep an eye on the clarity of the...

Slowing down a pump is not "doing nothing".

This.

The point here is there's no ONE way to brew great beer. Your suggestion is absolutely correct. Many other people's suggestions are also correct. You either have to crush coarse to pump full speed or slow your pump down if you want to keep your current crush. Either would probably fix my...

Ultimately, this is what I'm doing next brew. It's not the only way, but it seems the best way given my setup (especially considering the size of my false bottom). I highly doubt that even if I crush at .050 and add rice hulls I'll be able to recirculate at full speed with my false bottom...

Or...is the grainbed not flowing enough because it compacted as a result of pumping too fast? I’m quite convinced that’s what happened for me. If you read through this thread, 50% of people say crush fine and pump slow. The other say crush coarse and run full bore. Both are making great beer...

I've always run 1.75 qt/lb (including on the day of my first HERMS batch), but as the rest of the community has stated, with the wheat/oats in my grain bill, I was clearly just pumping too fast. I could see air pockets forming in the mash out/pump feed hose. I already have a decent false...