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I'll be second in line if you are willing to ship to 90277! Let me know.

I'm interested in the Blichmann floor standing burner and leg extensions (if you end up parting things out). Unfortunately, I'm out in California. What would be your asking price including shipping to 90277 if feasible?

Sounds like oxidation to me too - except the part about "much more carbonation". That sounds like infection. I haven't seen oxidation lead to more carbonation. But I can vouch for the darkening effects (having lived through that with hoppy beers).

I did just a few weeks ago. Shipping was fast (and free!). I got the 15 gallon tri-clad kettle. It is solidly constructed. I etched gallon markings on the inside (used glass blasting) and gave it a good cleaning with Bar Keeper's Friend. Highly recommended.

I do almost the same but instead of cutting the gas dip tube, I remove the gas post and pull the dip tube. I fill (with sanitizer) what I can through the lid and work the bubble up to the spot where the gas post was. Then fill through the hole where gas dip tube lives. Once there's no more...

Bullseye! Dang, that hurts. Better luck next time. I guess the good news is that you could just open the top and see exactly where the lines are. If you buy the exact same model to replace it, then you'll know where it's safe to cut.

jekeane, I sent a PM about a week ago and got no response - are these burners still available? Thanks!

PM sent for one burner.

How hot is your garage? Maybe your faucet is getting too warm and causing to CO2 to break out of solution. When you were using picnic taps, I assume you had those tucked inside your keezer? If you pull a beer and get foam, if you immediately pull another (after the first pull cools the faucet)...

Ok, how about a simpler question... Do grains add any sulfate to wort, or is sulfate level set by the minerals in the water? The reason I'm asking the previous questions in this thread is because I can't get that great "pop" to my IPAs that Pliny the Elder has. Whenever I got my strike water...

Does the left hand faucet pour well? If so, change the serving line from the middle faucet to the left faucet. If it's still all foam, it's not a problem with the faucet - I'd check carb level, poppets, and o-rings. If the pour is better, maybe it's the faucet - disassemble it and see if you can...

Hmmm. I'm not making myself very clear... My starting water is RO (actually it is distilled) so I know what my water quality is - it's all zeros. What I really want to know is what the malt adds. If I know the final product (the numbers in the first post) and that I'm starting with all zeros...

Martin, Those mineral levels are from a finished beer. I'm trying to figure out what salts to add to RO water and 14 lbs of 2 Row in order end up at those levels. Another way to state my question is: what minerals can I get out of a pound of 2 Row? Given those values, I can determine what I...

I sent off a sample of one of my favorite west coast beers to Ward Labs as I was curious about the levels of ions present in their product. I really do like many west coast IPAs; however, after following recommended hoppy profiles (McDole's IPA/Martin's Pale Ale), I found the resulting beers to...

I know that if you get too much Epsom salt in you, it can have a laxative effect but I don't know exactly what level that is. It's probably more than you have in your beer. However, I wouldn't chug a pint and go on a long car ride anywhere! With those levels of minerals, I'd have a hard time...

I see that you are using chalk - I wouldn't do that. It won't dissolve in your water unless you bubble CO2 through it. I see you are using baking soda too - instead of chalk try using more baking soda or some lime. That seems like a lot of minerals you've got going on there.

I sure hope that someone tries this method that can report additional sets of results. So far The_Bishop says there's no difference (at least according to my reading comprehension skills). I think TexasWine has a LODO batch going. I really am interested in the outcome. But I really don't like...

How hot was your sample? The correction factors can supposedly be pretty far off with high temperatures. I try to get within a few degrees F before I measure a sample with a hydrometer.

Sounds like it has decent specs - accuracy to 1.5% full scale and resolution down to 0.01 ppm. So, if I understand correctly, full scale is 19.99 ppm - accuracy is about 0.3 ppm. Seems like it should be acceptable. Please let us know how this works out. I'm also interested in getting better...

I've been trying to eliminate oxidation on the cold side - mostly focusing on kegging. On this front, why can't one dose the sanitizing solution with SMB prior to pushing it out of the keg? I'm pretty maniacal during purging - fill with sanitizer (dosed with Campden), invert keg, carefully tip...