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I can recommend not buying the B3 Grain Gobbler. I now have a monster and am happy with it. If you can't afford the mill of your choice get one of the cheap ones off the net, or just use the HBS's mill until you can get the right mill for you.

Come on Carbon Rod.... You piece of useless piece of poop monkey ejaculate.....wait.... this is so drunkkkkennn ramblingggggss

I am quoting myself, why? because I agreeee:drunk:

Beer should sit on the yeast for three mon... relaxing is the best way to bre... you will find tomorrow... now you might wait; sit your ass on the sofa.

You don't need to brew all grain to produce quality beers. You don't need to brew all grain to make better beer than you can buy in the store. Your money is much better spent on temperature control and yeast than all grain equipment. The rising costs will soon be felt across the board...

Just don't try smoking them in the airplane bathroom and you should be okay.

You are better off with the glass anyway (just don't drop it).* Maybe she was drunk and thought that you wanted to put 6 gallons of beer in a 5 gallon carboy...:drunk: *Better bottles are a PITA to clean and scratch pretty easily. I prefer buckets or glass carboys. If you disagree...

I second that. And if you aren't hungry to start with you will be soon after starting to read. He enthusiasm for food and beer is only out done by his eloquence in expressing it.

Also that OG of 1.035-40 is a great 5 gallon starter for your 1.090 beer the next weekend.

If you do find some old recipe from the past you will need the best on-line converter I have found. How many gills are there in a hogshead?

It takes a lot longer than three weeks to begin autolysis, don't worry about it. You are much more likely to create off flavors from oxygen pick up, bad sanitation (hoses or secondary vessel), or racking too soon (mmmm green apple and diacetyl). My rule for timing is even easier than the 1...

If you sparge too long you will run tannins out of your grain. The big problem is the pH not the SG (although running past 1.010 is just going to give you lots to boil down). Regardless, you should have no trouble producing, delicious tannin free beers from a partigyle. My twist on this would...

Keep the fermentation temps low for the first few days and then let the temp rise as the fermentation starts to slow down.

They may just be bubbles. You may want to bottle the beer if you are worried about possible infection and you are sure the fermentation is complete. You may want to double check you sanitation practices before going any further. OxyClean is a great cleaner, but you need to be careful to...

No, rats do not eat it, and it certainly isn't rtoen up!:cross:

I've found 550 to be a REALLY slow starter. How confident are you with your sanitation? If I were in your position I would go and get more liquid yeast and pitch that. But first I would make sure that fermentation had not started (check for a bad seal on the fermenter and look for bubbles on...

Why are you adding wort to already fermenting/ fermented beer? I doubt the lack of headspace is slowing the fermentation, more likely your yeast is crapping out. The healthy happy good yeast have fermented your beer and then flocced out, you add more wort and only the unhealthy slow yeast are...

It seems that you are mixing the "late extract" and "late hop" methods. The late extract method is to add a portion of your extract at the beginning of a 60 minute boil (the amounts that homebrewer 99 gives sound good) and add your hops as you normally would, then add the rest of your...

With the extract brews your FG is really based on the extract. Some extracts just don't ferment that far down. You could try brewing the same recipe with a different extract. Or try replacing some of the extract with corn sugar (keep it close to 15% of the total fermentables). 68˚F...

I got 23, too. I teach preschool.:mug: