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For years my friends had problems with appliances. They always had problems with their oven, no one could fix it. Just a bunch of weird stuff going on. One day they had some work getting done and the worker realized that wires were loose somewhere between the service drop and the fuse panel...

I’m still using grain I stocked up on when my LHBS closed 2-1/2 years ago. No issues, still makes great beer. I store it in buckets with gamma lids

I tried using brewing software but wasn’t thrilled with the results. I put John Palmers math into an excel spreadsheet, and still had to tweak to match the numbers and volumes I get from my system. Like what @kevin58 you can’t blindly accept the results.

I use a 15 gallon sterilite container from Walmart to open ferment my Hefeweizen.

I replace a pound of base malt with a pound of wheat in a lot of my recipes. I only have to adjust my mill for the wheat because it is smaller than barley then readjust for the barley. I don’t use rice hulls with wheat unless I’m using 50% or more wheat in a recipe.

Stay with the immersion chiller. They’re easier to clean, and you can visually see that it is clean. Fix this one or get a coil of copper tube and make your own.

RO Buddie from Amazon $68.99.

I used plastic buckets for 20 years with zero issues. I would replace them every couple years and reuse the old ones. I only switched to Anvil Ss because I had some disposable cash during COVID. The only real advantages are easier cleaning and a drain valve. It didn’t affect the taste of my beer...

Info: 1 lb grain will absorb.125 gallon (1/2 qt) of water. What is your boil volume? What is the grain bill? Let’s assume the boil volume is 6 gallons with a 10 lbs grain bill. 10lbs grain x .125 gal = 1.25 gallons water absorption. So you would need 7.25 gallons of strike water to get 6...

Two years ago I brewed my hefe to take camping. I bottled it in some heavier 12 oz German bottles and also several other commercial bottles, some quite thin. I put them the bathtub of my camper just in case, but after a six hour ride in the heat and over some bumpy roads, I didn't lose a...

I was stationed in Germany for nine years and drank way more than my fair share of Hefeweizen. I tried for years to brew one, using all the “tricks” of mash schedules, yeast pitch rates and fermentation temps, all with mediocre results. Then I finally hit it. 55% wheat 40% pils 5% carapils...

I used to do that then I brewed 6 gallons of cream ale and split it between two 3 gallon kegs. Used a priming sugar calculator and primed one with 1/2 the priming sugar and the other with the full amount. Used pressure gauges to track, and the keg with 1/2 the priming sugar created 1/2 the...

I batch sparge with 200F water. No issues and I get to a boil faster.

No. Just add a pound of wheat.

The only hard rule about pressure fermentation is there are no hard rules, at least that I can find. It’s a pro brewing process used to speed up production and move product that people are trying to adapt to the home brewing level. That being said I’ve done it twice, a Pilsner and a Vienna...

Th alcohol I produce and consume will kill me before the pesticide residues that you’re concerned about do.

Read the first few chapters of How to Brew by John Palmer. And watch this https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/tutorials/how-to-brew-with-john-palmer/how-to-brew-video-series-with-john-palmer/

I add a 1/2 pound of rice hulls to my Hefeweizen and roggenbier. They’re cheap insurance.

I calculate to get 60% of my boil volume out of the mash and batch sparge with 40% of my boil volume. Depending on the grain bill I get between 75-80% efficiency

I use two Mash & Boil units, mash in one and batch sparge in the other. Works great