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Depends on the grain. Some require diastatic power, but grains like crystal are already converted. Gains and Extracts List for Beer Brewing | BeerSmith™ Home Brewing Software for a full list of what does and does not need to be mashed.

I guess it depends what you're talking about. If it's a specialty grain, then you're adding sugar, so calories. If you "steep" a grain like 2-row, even at 140, you are going to get conversion of starch to sugar. Even if you didn't, you are still adding starch which have calories. Unless you...

Can never have enough kegs. Thanks for the giveaway!

Yup. I don't rely on the Tilt to tell me what the actual final gravity is but instead use it to monitor overall fermentation progress. The Tilt FG is always higher than what I measure with the hydrometer.

Yup, this is what I do. Actually I never had to worry about boil overs with 120v but since upgrading to 240v, I've had to watch it. But since the power is already at 100%, it's pretty quick to get the power to 0% and that dropped the foam pretty quick.

I always enjoy watching my wife make gagging sounds on any beer I make with an SRM greater than 20.

Chiming in on the recirculation, since I got a bag for the malt pipe, the screen wouldn't fit on top so I expanded the hole in the lid and made this recirculation ring with some loc-line and attaching it to a quick disconnect. Works pretty slick.

I'm always fond of the "I don't normally like sours but if I did, it would be good" comment.

Big sleeping bag, blankets, anything that has some sort of insulation should do the trick.

I subscribe to BYO, Zymurgy and Craft Beer and Brewing

The tilt is good for knowing what is going on with fermentation and not relying on it for actual numbers. You really need a normal hydrometer for calibrating the OG. If this is the first time you've used it, then your OG may be off.

As others have said, it's literally impossible for your OG to be 1.010 when using that much DME unless you topped up to like 20 gallons. Clearly there was some stratification, which can happen with DME and topping off with cold water. I'd just assume your OG was what the recipe builder says it...

Can never have enough temperature controllers. Here's a pic of my finished basement brewing setup.

My line of work and education experience is a little different but here are my thoughts on the path I chose. Right out of high school I went to college for a degree in Biochemistry/Molecular Biology and immediately pursued and received my PhD in Molecular Pharmacology. So my first "real-job"...

I got the 10.5 version and also bought a bag that fits in the malt pipe so I can grind my grain really fine. I do really like the system but after 4 or 5 brews in it, I'm still trying to up my mash efficiency from 60%. I did buy the pump kit and do recirculate with the mash. I've noticed I get...

I think you found probably the best solution for right now.

If you put the probe is a bottle of water, it would probably cycle less often too.

It's a pretty good dent but if it doesn't look cracked or anything, I would assume it's ok. But if you're worried, you could try to get it replaced. As for the lid, they fully seal by having pressure push them up from the bottom. So put some CO2 in there and it should seal up the lid.

Also that yeast is notorious for stalling around 1.035. From their website: This strain is notorious for a rapid and vigorous start to fermentation, only to stick around 1.035 S.G. Fermentation will finish, given time and warm temperatures. Warm fermentation temperatures, at least 90 °F (32 °C)...

Without doing a closed transfer, this is about the best way to do it. Although here are some suggestions. I would just pump CO2 through the open lid because if you pressurize it, you'll need to release the CO2 to open the keg. Other than that, after you rack and close it up, I'd crank it up to...