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I find that using nutrients in kveik beers make the beers better. Just my two cents. Especially for under 1050OG beers

Have you tried pressurised fermentation?

Where are you getting your information? The higher the temp, the faster the fermentation. The reason we don't ferment at high temps are the off tastes that the yeast give when you do. If you are fermenting a lager with lager yeast at let's say 30c and 22psi it will most defenitly be done in...

Or if he really is certain that his beer was finished and did take a reading 3 days apart I can think of two reasons this would happen. He batch primed the beer and didn't mix well, making some bottles explosive and others flat. Or he could have an infected beer. I once had 2 bottles out of a...

Ahh the sound of my first adsl Internet connection. Wonderful. We would wait for pictures to manifest on the screen. Also upgrading my c64 cassette machine to a disc station. It was huge. And last but not less important: living without Google....

I have a 5 gallon kettle with a 1500w element I got off ebay for about 10bucks. I can use both the stove ad the heating element for a quick boil. Installing took 5 min. Old pc power cable to power the element. I use this for all my extract brews.

or it may taste fishy? haha

My uncle got one aswell. He just let it ride til finished fermenting, then he carefully got the nasty stuff out of there and bottled. He said it was more wine'ey , but he did drink most of it, didnt die so all good. haha

Metric is the way to go haha

Seems like a good way to do it. I'm deffo going to try out the boel tap I was sendt for testing on a NEIPA, as the tap has a purge button. I suspect this little handy device will be a game changer for beers like NEIPAs.

Problem with NEIPAS is that they oxidise very quickly. Hard to bottle without removing oxigen first. But some people are having success with a beer gun and a lot of co2

Quoting Advance here: In post #14 you recommend to the OP that he could move his partially carbonated beer to a bottling bucket and add priming sugar to finish carbonating in the bottle. Luckily @Vale71 was able to add some actual knowledge that hopefully derailed the disastrous result this...

Also, I personally don't like the beer gun or the complicated counter pressure filler. I have almost stopped bottling because it was too much of a hazzle. I ferment under pressure, carb up and transfer to keg.

I was sendt one of these to test and review. Havent gotten to it yet, but will be posting a vídeo and reciew soon. First impressions are really gold though. Maybe interesting for somebody thata thinking about bottling 10gallons https://boel.company/product/itap-crown-cap/

So again. After fermentation is complete. You add sugar and trap the yeast and sugar inside the bottle with the cap. Then you leave itfor 2 weeks. In that time the yeast will have eaten the new source of food, aka sugar, and put co2 in your beer. Then you can put them in the fridge for...

Conditioning just means leave in a cool place to mature. When you bottle and rely on natural carbonation you need the yeast to be alive and well (not hibernating) at room temp, so it can eat the added sugar, so it can produce co2 in your beer. If you cool down the beer it won't carbonate because...

Conditioning that long would be for lagers. You put the bottles out at room temp for 2 weeks then you put them in fridge to condition

I have noticed a big difference in quality of my beers since I took o2 out of the picture with my fermzilla and fermentsaurus. These fermenter are the best. I always ferment under pressure now. I normally use about 10-20 psi. Closed loop to keg and serve. Or even serve from the fermenter. I love...

Yeah. You mashed pretty low so it's not unormal. How's the taste

In my case I use two if the yeast slurry is old, one if its fresh. Old being more than 4 months.