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I have actually switched to cold side additions of yeast nutrient after listening to the Craft Beer and Brewing podcast. I’m not sure it made a huge difference, but the sulfur production is lower (I make mostly lagers). I’m not sure if it’s the nutrient or the high levels of FAN in the starter...

Generally speaking, it’s best to have @ double the size of container needed as the starter, 1 liter starter in a 2 liter flask. This is a common in labs as well as at home. It creates an ideal surface area for the exchange of gases. But it works to make a 2 liter starter in a 2 liter flask. The...

Proponents of SNS say it's superior to stir plate starters, but both can be pitched at high krausen. To me it's a distinction without a difference. But as noted above, when you ferment beer, you create an environment favorable to the beer. When you grow yeast, you create an environment...

The pitch of the starter at high krausen into wort. English brewers would skim the top of the krausen of an active fermenting beer and pitch it into another batch. The yeast is in a very active state and starts very fast. I just use a vinyl hose and a diffusion stone and inject pure oxygen...

Agitation does a number of things. First it adds a small constant supply of oxygen which promotes lipid production needed for cell wall production. Second it helps to degas co2 out of solution to promote yeast growth. As co2 builds in the beer, it inhibits yeast growth. Third and likely less...

I pressure ferment lagers at tradition lager temperatures @ 50F (10C). I don't let them rise in temperature very much. I pitch at 0 psi and let the pressure build to 7.5 psi, toward the end I let the temperature come up to 54-55F (12.5C) and start spunding at that point. Using this method I...

I have used S23 multiple times and have found it fruity every time, like Juicy Fruit gum (yuk). I tried cold and I have tried it under pressure, both were failures. But I always wondered if it would work in a IPA or PA with fruity hops. I think the fruitiness would work in that situation. 34/70...

The key words in my post were "estimate" and " cell counts aren't entirely accurate". The point of the post was to use the same calculator as consistently as you can so you can achieve consistent and predictable results. It is in no way a good practice in a laboratory or even in a brewery. I'm...

Yeah. A 2 liter starter gives you roughly 300 billion, so even with 50-70% mortality rate on the yeast you would be good. 8-10 billion on low side. If I'm brewing a lager or higher gravity ale, I will build it up in two steps. Lagers use a 1 liter followed by a 4 liter. The net cell count is @...

That's kind of what's happening anyway with these liquid yeast packs. I don't want to get a 6 month old yeast pack with viability unknown, I would much rather have a much smaller amount of super fresh yeast and build it up. I try to get the freshest liquid yeast. I build it up with a 2 liter...

It's a buffering solution that help preserve the yeast by stabilizing the internal pH of the cell. 2-3% by weight can preserve yeast. It's an alternative to cryo-preservation (freezing). Not all yeast respond the same to it in my experience, but Wyeast 2124 does very well with this as a...

There are strains that are not available in a dry form. WLP007 is one of them. I have used a lot of S04 and WLP007 and many claim they are the same, but in practical terms they are very different. WLP007 is an awesome yeast and I haven't found a good replacement. It's fast, it drops like a rock...

Here's one: https://brewmagic.com/product/plate-pro-sanitary-wort-chiller/

That low pH is a function of the fermentation more than the mash. You should be @ 4.0 to 4.3 A 5.2 ph post boil is a little low for a stout, 5.3-5.4 would be better. A good fermentation will produce relatively stable finish pH's, each yeast will hit what I like to call it's "sweet spot". When I...

Thank you! Edit: After reading the paper, it seems to reinforce the idea that 144-145F at a pH of 5.4 (20C) produces the most fermentable wort. It's a good geeky read.

Is the denaturing temperature similar to beta amylase? Beta amylase denatures @ 149-150F (65C), prolonged rests above this temperature will reduce or eliminate beta amylase activity, possibly reducing the fermentability of the wort and seemingly the crispiness of the beer. The other thing that...

Copper can often "creep" or compress with time, especially after building and the finer the wire. The heavier current terminals need to be tightened for the first year or so. Afterward the copper "creep" happens much less. I've had this happen to me, but not to this level. For me, it turned out...

This is by far the best way to add alkalinity if you need it. Baking soda brings sodium with it and pickling lime isn't perfect either. A good source of alkaline water (known levels) can be used to adjust pH up. If the mash drops too low use alkaline water or blend for sparging water. It's...

I have done that and I observed no change in the pH, or very little. It doesn't work. I don't know what your doing, but chalk is not dissolving into solution because it is not very soluble, therefore your mash pH is rising due to something else. I do know it is very difficult to add alkalinity...

Yes, it needs to be dissolved to effect pH. That has always been a problem with chalk, it doesn't readily dissolve and literally drops out, or precipitates out of solution.