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I see a lot of recent threads talking about the purity of commercial CO2 bottles, especially in regard to the O2 impurity level (around <0.02% depending on supplier) and it’s potential for oxidation when used to carbonate beer. The critical temperature of oxygen is around -118C, above this...

What you are after is a spunding valve. There are quite a few in the market at the moment as pressure fermenting/carbonating at the end of fermentation has grown in popularity. That is of course if you are relying on fermentation to produce pressure. Out of curiosity what exactly are you brewing...

Copper conducts heat much quicker than SS and will result in faster cool down rates. On saying that, many SS chillers have thinner walls due to higher strength, so the heat transfer can be similar (but still not quite as good as copper). SS sure is easier to clean!

The article is wrong. Wort is extracted from the MLT the same way for both RIMS and HERMS. Really the only difference between the two systems is one heats the wort directly, whereas the other heats a reservoir of water that in turn heats the wort. Both have pros and cons and they would all be...

Yes the measurement would be after correction, be it a few points out due to inaccuracy (1.000 vs more realistic 1.004). This is all assumption anyway. Key takeaway is to measure FG with hydrometer.

Just check to see if the temperature probe you are using is suitable for use in liquids. Not all are. If not, taping to the side of a keg with some insulation (foam, bubble wrap etc.) is a good way to go.

Use hydrometer for FG measurement. A refractometer will give an incorrect reading due to the presence of ethanol and the correction equations will not be 100% accurate. I assume your FG will still be low, maybe 1.004 to 1.008 or so.

Sounds like settling in the keg. Just invert the keg for a few minutes to get it all back into suspension?

The excess head means CO2 is escaping the already carbonated liquid when being poured, resulting in flat beer in your glass. Definitely stop carbonating it further. If you are confident it’s not length or temperature related, I would check your connections and faucet for any blockages, such as...

Combine this with reduced hop bitterness from oxidation and it throws the flavour balance right into sweet territory. I see many articles saying oxidation as a wet cardboard or sherry taste, but I’ve never experienced that. I think those flavours are only in extreme or long term situations. I...

“sweet” can be a sign of oxidation. You mention that you force carb while shaking the keg. This definitely speeds up carbonation but also oxidation unless you can be certain there is no oxygen in the keg headspace. How are you transferring from fermenter to keg? “fruity” can be a sign of too...

Reading the Aussie brewing forum it seems the intent was to do the following: 1. put the closed ball valve on fermenter gas post thread before fermentation 2. when ready to dry hop, fill the bottle and tee piece with the hops and somehow flip it upside down and thread it onto the closed ball...

Not at all. Just thought it was strange as I saw this last week as one of their new products, then just now stumble onto this thread where you describe the identical setup. I’m not saying you copied the idea, if anything it was the other way around based on the date of your first post...

Not sure what’s going on here but this set up was already on this website. https://www.kegland.com.au/pco1881-x-pco1881-female-ball-balve-dry-hop-device-for-fermzilla.html I saw it there last week. You affiliated?

I know that those who “no chill” offset the timing of their late additions to account for increased bitterness. There should be plenty of forum posts on that topic that describe what has worked for them.

Are you sure you had enough liquid to float the hydrometer?

Sounds like you are not cooling fast enough, causing excess bitterness from all the late hop additions. If you can’t increase the cool down rate then probably easiest to offset your hop additions by 10 mins or so. You could offset your bittering addition but I think you’d see better results by...

I have a bottle of St Bernardus Wit / Blanche and was planning on brewing a witbier soon. Has anyone recultured yeast from the bottle of this beer?

I found that the harder wheat grain powdered more when milled and escaped the bag when mashed, causing a murky wort. As with BIAB, that flour does not get removed before the kettle and gets boiled. I believe that is where that grainy (not in a good way) off flavour came from. I could very well...

I wonder if the reason many extract weizens work well is because they don’t have to worry about turbidity and astringency from the wheat grains.