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Looks good. Relax, Don't Worry; Have A Homebrew

I use vodka, but a lot of people use sanitizer. Mostly it's to stop fruit flies from flying in and contaminating your beer, but a little extra protection doesn't hurt.

It's okay. You can start by having a blow off tube going to a cup of sanitizer (sometimes it can create quite a mess) until fermentation slows down a little and you can replace the airlock. Depending on how much foam in going into your airlock you can either leave it until new foam stops flowing...

One thing to note is that often corny kegs won't seal under natural carbonation - the o-ring often leaks under low pressure but will seat and hold when you hit it with 20psi or so. I have since switched out my keg rings with the Williams brewing oversized ones. 10g are you talking about a CO2...

More details needed. What kind of keg? Was it on CO2 for carbonation or were you naturally carbonating? It is probably okay if you kept everything sanitary. Just force carbonate again.

I have 2 of those (one smaller than the other) and there is no comparison on the aroma. The free floating hops in the fermenter (after cold crashing) produce MUCH better aroma. Also after about 3 ounces those get really compressed with hops when they expand in the beer (probably part of the...

So you are still dry hopping loose? I don't have an inline filter. I had good luck with starting my transfer and watching the hose while I rotate until I start to pick up some crud and back off, but this last time it was not flowing at all. I have been cold crashing before dry hopping (that has...

So how are you dry hopping and transferring with the Anvil fermenter 2 years later? I have not had issues with hopping up to 4 ounces, but my last beer I went up to 6 oz and had to blow CO2 in the spigot to get things flowing, followed by several removals of the poppet to clear out hops when I...

I don't think the trub would trap yeast. I would look more into water profile and enzymes. What is your water source? Any water treatment? Did you add any yeast nutrients? What yeast was used - I missed this US-05 I assumed that you used a hydrometer and not a refractometer to measure final...

For me in most cases 3 days of active fermentation and it's starting to fall. That said, I no longer dry hop then; I'm now waiting for fermentation to be done and cold crash to drop a lot of yeast out of suspension, then raise temp back up to 60 or so and dry hop. I'm getting MUCH better aroma...

At that stage there is so much CO2 being produced that you are most likely fine. Cleanup and let it go.

I'll take a shot. Thanks Inkbird!

Nice project(s) and space. We sound very similar - woodworking, brewing, backpacking, 59. I will jealously follow your progress. Go Eagles

I would " do like a half hour at 148 then raise the temp to 155"

I use my grandmother's capper that has been handed down. I quick Google finds that this model came into popularity during prohibition. Grandma always told me it was for root beer.

How are you taking the reading? Hydrometer or Refractometer? If using a Refractometer you need to use a formula to get the actual specific gravity once fermentation has started. Here's one online - Refractometer Calculator « SeanTerrill.com

I would finish with Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish - it's food safe and fairly hard. Nice work.

I heard that a group of Karens is called a Homeowner Association.

https://www.kegconnection.com/search.php?search_query=poppet&section=product Should be able to find what you need here